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CITY: UDAIPUR

Telephone extension: 0294
Population: 46500

UDAIPUR

Possibly no city in Rajasthan is quite as romantic as Udaipur. The French Impressionist painters, let alone the Brothers Grimm, would have loved this place, and it's not without justification that Udaipur has been called the Venice of the East.
Founded in 1568 by Maharana Udai Singh II following the final sacking of Chittorgarh by the Mugal emperor, Akbar, Udaipur rivals any of the world-famous creations of the Mughals with its Rajput love of the whimsical and its superbly crafted elegance. The Lake Palace is certainly the best late example of this unique cultural explosion, but Udaipur is full of palaces, temples and havelis ranging from the modest to the extravagant. It's also proud of its heritage as a centre for the performing arts, painting and crafts.
Until recent times, the higher uninhabited parts of the city were covered in forests but, as elsewhere in India, most of these have inevitably been turned into firewood. There is, however, a movement afoot to reverse this process.
The city was once surrounded by a wall and, although the gates and much of the wall over the higher crags remain, a great deal of it has disappeared. The old city is, however, still a jumble of tangled streets.
In common with most Indian cities, Udaipur's urban and industrial sprawl goes beyond the city's original boundaries, and pollution of various kinds can be discouraging. This will be your first impression of Udaipur if you arrive at the train or bus station. Ignore it and head for the old city where a different world awaits.

Orientation
The old city, bounded by the remains of a city wall, is on the east side of Lake Pichola. The train station and bus stand are both just outside the city wall to the south east.

Information
Tourist Offices The Tourist Reception Centre (( 411535) is in the Fateh Memorial building near Surajpol, less than a kilometre from the bus stand. The office is open Monday to Saturday 10 am the 1.30 pm and information counters at the train station, air port and at the southern end of the City Palace complex.

Money You can change money at a number of place including the Vijaya Bank and Thomas Cook, both in the City Palace complex. At Chetak Circle, the State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur changes money. There's also the Bank of Baroda, the Bank of Rajasthan and the Punjab National Bank, all in Bapu Bazaar.

Post & Communications The main post office is directly north of the old city, at Chetak Circle, but poste resante is at the post office at Shastri Circle. There's also a small post office in the quadrant outside the Express office (( 414388) is at 380 Ashok Nagar, Shree Niketan Building (near Ayer Bridge).
Internet Resources At the time of writing, the Hotel Raj Palace (see Places to Stay) and Comfort Travels & tours, in the courtyard outside the City Palace Museum, were the only places with email facilities.

Lake Pichola
Placid Lake Pichola was enlarged by Maharana Udai Singh II after he founded the city. He built a masonry dam, known as the Badipol, and the lake is now 4km in length and 3km wide. Nevertheless, it remains fairly shallow and can actually dry up in severe droughts. Fortunately, this doesn't happen often. The City Palace extends a considerable distance along the east bank of the lake shore, where there are some interesting bathing and dhobi (laundry) ghats. Unfortunately the lake can sometimes get choked with water hyacinth.
Out in the lake are two islands - Jangiwas and Jagmandir. Boat rides, which leave regularly from the City Palace jetty (known as Bansi Ghat), are popular. These cost Rs 75 for half an hour, Rs 150 for one hour (the latter includes a visit to Jagmandir Island).

Jagniwas Island Jagniwas, the Lake Palace island, is about 1.5 hectares in size. The palace was built by Maharaja Jagat Singh II in 1754 and covers the whole island. Formerly the royal summer palace, today it is the ultimate in luxury hotels, with shady courtyards, lotus ponds and even a small mango tree-shaded swimming pool. Yes, this is the perfect place to fall in love, but casual visitors are not really encouraged. Nonguests can only come over for lunch or dinner - and then only if the hotel is not full, which often is. Hotel launches cross to the island from the City Palace jetty. The Lake Palace, along with the Shiv Niwas Palace and Monsoon Palace in Udaipur, were used as sets in the James Bond movie Octopussy.
Behind Jagniwas is a much smaller island called Arsi Vilas, which has been used in recent times as a helipad.

Jagmandir Island the other palace, Jagmandir, was commenced by Maharaja Karan Singh, but takes its name from Maharana Jagat Singh ( 1628-52) who made a number of additions to it. It is said that the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan, derived some of his inspiration for the Taj Mahal from this palace after staying here in 1623-24 while leading a revolt against his father, Jehangir. Flanked by a row of enormous stone elephants, the island has an impressive chhatri carved from grey-blue stone. The view across the lake, to the city and its glorious golden palace, is a scene of rare beauty.

City Palace & Museums
The imposing City Palace, towering over the lake, is the largest palace complex in Rajasthan. Actually a conglomeration of buildings added by various maharanas, it still manages to retain a surprising uniformity of design. Building was started by Maharana Udai Singh II, the city's founder. The palace is surmounted by balconies, towers and cupolas and there are fine views over the lake and the city from the upper terraces.
The palace is entered from the northern end through the Baripol (built 1600) and the Tripolia Gate (1725), with its eight carved marble arches. It was once a custom for maharanas to be weighed under the gate and their weight in gold or silver distributed to the populace.
The main part of the palace is now preserved as a museum. It includes the Mor Chowk with its beautiful mosaics of peacocks, the favourite Rajasthani bird. The Manak (or Ruby) Mahal has glass and mirror work, while Krishna Mahal has a remarkable collection of miniatures (no photography allowed). In the Bari Mahal, there is a beautiful mirror work and the Chini Mahal is covered in ornamental tiles. There's an armoury section downstairs. More paintings can be seen in the Zenana Mahal. There's a large tiger-catching cage near the Zenana Mahal Entrance, and a tiny WWF shop nearby.
The museum is open daily 9.30 am to 4.30 pm and admission is Rs 25, or a hefty Rs 75 if you enter from the Lake Palace side. It costs Rs 50 for a camera, and a whopping Rs 300 for a video camera. A guide (Rs 95) is worthwhile; the knowledgeable Kishan Das speaks French, English and Hindi, and is currently learning Spanish.
There's also a government museum (Rs 3; free Monday) within the place complex. Exhibits include a stuffed kangaroo, a freaky monkey holding a small lamp and Siamese-twin deer. There's also more serious stuff like sculptures and paintings. In the large courtyard outside the city Palace Museum are a number of oricey handicraft shops, a money-exchange facility, a kiosk and places to buy film.
The other part of the palace is against the lake shore and has been partly converted into two luxury hotels: Shiv Niwas Palace and the Fateh Prakash Palace - See places to stay.
There's a stunning Crystal Gallery at the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel in the City Palace complex. This rare collection of Osler's crystal was ordered from England by Maharana Sajjan Singh in 1877. items include crystal chairs, tables and even beds! It's open daily 10 am to 1 pm and 3 to 8 pm; entry (Rs 200) includes a soft drink, coffee or tea. No photography is allowed.
The Crystal Gallery overlooks the grandiose Durbar Hall with its massive chandeliers and striking portraits of former maharanas of Mewar. Many palaces in India have a durbar hall, or hall of audience. Historically, the durbar hall was used by India's rulers for official occasions such as state banquets. It was also used to hold formal or infoermal meetings. However this is undoubtedly on of India's most impressive, with a lavish interior boasting some of the largest chandeliers in the country. The walls display royal weapons and striking portraits of former maharanas of Mewar (a most distinguished looking lot). The illustrious Mewar rulers come from what is believed to be the oldest ruling dynasty in the world, spanning 76 generations.
The foundation stone of the durbar hall was laid in 1909 by Lord Minto, the viceroy of India, during the reign of Maharana Fateh Singh. As a mark of honour to Lord Minto, it was originally named Minto Hall. The top floor of this high-ceilinged hall is surrounded by viewing galleries, where ladies of the palace could watch in veiled seclusion what was happening below.
Today, the durbar hall in Udaipur is open to visitors. It still has the capacity to hold hundreds of people and can even be hired for special functions, such as conferences or social gatherings - contact the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel ((528016 fax 528006). Entry to the durbar hall is Rs 50 (free for residents of the Fateh Prakash Palace and Shiv Niwas Palace Hotels).

Jagdish Temple
Only 15m north of the entrance to the City Palace, this fine Indo-Aryan temple was built by Maharana Jagat Singh in 1651 and enshrines a black stone image of Vishnu as Jagannath, lord off the universe. A brass image of the Garuda is in a shrine in front of the temple. The temple is open daily 5 am to 2 pm and 4 to 10 pm.

Fateh Sagar
North of the Lake Pichola, this lake is overlooked by a number of hills and is a hangout for young lovers. It was originally built in 1678 by Maharana Fateh singh. In the middle of the lake is Nehru Park, a popular garden island with a boat from near the bottom of Moti Magri for Rs 5. Pedal boats (Rs 40 for 30 minutes) are also available. An auto-rickshaw from the old city should cost around Rs 20 (one way).

Moti Magri
Atop the Moti Magri, or Pearl Hill, overlooking Fateh Sagar, is a statue of the Rajput hero Maharana Pratap, who frequently defied the Mugals. The path to the top traverses elegant gardens, including a Japanese rock garden. The park is open daily 7.30 am to 7 pm and admission is Rs 10. To get there, take a bicycle/scooter for Rs1/3 or a rickshaw/car for Rs 5/15.

Bharitya Lok Kala Museum
Exhibits at this small museum, which is also a foundation for the preservation and promotion of local folk arts, include dolls, masks, musical instruments, paintings and - the high point of the exhibits - puppets. It is open 9 am to 6 pm daily and entry is Rs 10, plus Rs 10/50 for a camera/video. Regular free 15 minute puppet shows are staged daily. Longer puppet and cultural shows are held daily 6 to 7 pm (Rs 30). Call ( 529296 for details.

Sahelion ki Bari
The Sahelion ki Bari, or Garden of the Maids of honour, is in the north of the city. This small ornamental garden, with its fountains, kiosks, marble elephants and delightful lotus pool, is open 9am to 6 pm daily. Entry is Rs 2, plus Rs 2 to turn the fountains on.

Shilpgram
Shilpgram, a crafts village 3 km west of Fateh Sagar, has displays of traditional houses from Rajasthan, Gujarat, Goa and Maharashtra. There are also demonstrations by musicians, dancers, or artisans from these states. Although it's much more animated during festival times (usually in early December, but check with the Tourist Reception Centre), there's usually something happening. It's open 11 am to 7 pm daily; entry is Rs 5/10 for Indians/foreigners.
Next to the site, the Shilpi Restaurant serves up good Indian, continental and Chinese food. It also has a swimming pool (Rs 100), open daily 11 am to 4 pm. Not far away is the rather less impressive Woodland Restaurant.
A return auto-rickshaw trip (including a 30 minute stop) between the old city and Shilpgram is Rs 80.

Ahar Museum
About 2 km east of Udaipur are the remains of an ancient city. The small collection at the museum here includes some very old earthen pottery. It's open dail6y except Friday 10 am to 4.30 pm; entry is Rs 3 (free Monday). No photography is allowed.
Nearby is an impressive cluster of cenotaphs of the maharanas of Mewar, which have been recently restored

Monsoon Palace
On a distant range, this neglected palace was constructed by Maharana Sajjan Singh in the late 19th century. It is now owned by the government, and is closed to the public ( although a little bakseesh to the caretaker may open the doors). The main reason to come here is to take in the absolutely breathtaking views. The palace is illuminated at night and from a distance looks like something out of a fairy tale. The round trip takes about one hour by car. The return trip by auto-rickshaw should cost Rs 100 (including 30 minutes at the site).

Other Attractions
The Sajjan Niwas Gardens have pleasant lawns and a zoo - beware of unfriendly dogs here. Beside it is the Rose Garden, or Gulab Bagh. Don't confuse the Nehru Park opposite Bapu Bazaar with the island park of the same name in Fateh Sagar. Sunset Point, not far from the Café Hill Park, is indeed lovely at sunset (entry Rs 5). There's a musical fountain here, which plays each evening.
The Madan Mohan Malvai Ayurvedic College & Hospital at Ambamata Scheme, near Fateh Sagar, prescribes natural medicines and conducts courses in ayurveda.
Almost 5km beyond Shilpgram is Badi ka Talab, also referred to as Tiger Lake. This mammoth artificial lake, flanked by hills, is a pleasant picnic spot. Crocodiles apparently lurk in parts of the lake, so swimmers beware!

Organised Tours
Five hour city tours leave daily at 8 am from the RTDC's hotel Kajri. Cost is Rs 50 (excluding entry to sites). Depending on demand, an afternoon tour (2 to 7 pm) goes out to Eklingji, Haldighati and Nathdwara and costs Rs 80. Contact the Tourist Reception Centre for details. For information on boat tours, see Lake Pichola earlier in this section.

Places to Stay - Budget
Udaipur pioneered the Paying Guest House Scheme in Rajasthan, and there are now over 75 families participating. Expect to pay Rs 100 to Rs 600 per night; contact the Tourist Reception Centre for details.
Hotels around the Jagdish Temple are definitely preferable to the others. Next best are those between the City Palace and the bus stand, along Lake Palace Rd and Bhattiyani Chotta. Lake-view rooms are usually a bit more expensive and should be requested when booking.
The commission system is notorious here and many travellers are bullied by auto-rickshaw drivers into staying at a hotel where they get commission (see Getting Around, later in this section).

Jagdish Temple Area You'll pay a little more for a hotel in this area, but there is hardly any traffic noise, most places have views over the lake, and the central location is ideal.
Hotel Gangaur Palace (( 422303, 3 Gangaur ghat) is a fabulous choice in this area. Singles/doubles with common bath are Rs 60/80. Large doubles with bath range from Rs 150 to Rs 350 for lake view rooms. There's a rooftop restaurant serving Indian and continental cuisine.

Hotel Badi Haveli ((412588, 85 Gangaur Ghat Rd) is a popular place with fine views over the lake and old city. Plain but neat singles/doubles with common bath are Rs 100/150, doubles with bath are Rs 180, and the best room with a view is Rs 250. Veg meals are available; a thali is Rs 51.

Anjani Hotel (( 421770) with rooms with bath from Rs 100.

Lalghat Guest House ((525301, fax 418508, 33 Lalghat) has a rooftop with great views over the water. It's another travellers favourite, with dorm beds for Rs 50, small rooms with common bath for Rs 75/100 and rooms with attached bath from Rs 250 to Rs 350. There is a small kitchen for self-caterers, and a shop.

Evergreen Guest House ((421585, 32 Lalghat), next door, has rooms around a small courtyard. Doubles with common/attached bath are Rs 100/150; the best room is Rs 250.

Jag Niwas Guest House (( 422067, 21 Gangaur Rd) is a little place with rooms for Rs 80/150 with bath. The rooftop sports a veg restaurant.

Lake Ghat Guest House ((521636, fax 520023), across the road from the Lalghat Guest house, is another popular cheapie. Singles/doubles/triples with bath start from Rs 150/200/250. There's also a good restaurant and terrace area.

Lake Corner Soni Paying Guest House (no phone), in the Lal Ghat area, is nothing fancy but is owned by a sweet elderly couple. Doubles without/with bath are Rs 100/150 (many rooms with Indian-style toilets). The rooftop affords terrific views.

Jheel Guest House (( 421352, 56 Gangaur Ghat) is right at the bottom of the hill, by the ghat. Housed in an old haveli, rooms with common bath are around Rs 80/150. The newer annexe across the road has better (more expencive rooms and a rooftop restaurant overlooking the lake. In the same area is the friendly Lehar Guest House (( 417651, 86 Gangaur ghat Rd) with doubles with bath from Rs 80.

Nukkad Guest House(no phone, 56 Ganesh Ghatti), run by a friendly couple, has very basic but affordable rooms. Doubles without/with bath cost Rs 60/80.

Lake Palace Rd Area This area is central but farther away from Lake Pichola. Hotel Mahendra Prakash (( 522993, Lake Palace Rd ) ahs doubles with attached bath ranging from Rs 150 to Rs 600. There's also a sparkling clean swimming pool, a restaurant and a rooftop with views of the City Palace.

Shotel Shambhu Vilas ((421921), a ferw doors away, has singles/doubles from Rs 200/350. Nearby is the rather dishevelled Haveli Hotel (( 421351).

Ranjit Niwas hotel ((5257740, not too far away, is nothing flash but quite cheap. Dorm beds are Rs 50; basic rooms with common bath are Rs 100/150. With attached bath they're Rs 150/250.

Bus Stand Area For people catching an early morning bus, there are several mundane options in this uninspiring area.
Apsara Hotel ((420400), north of the bus stand, is a huge place set back from the courtyard. The rooms front onto an internal courtyard making them relatively quiet. Dorm beds are Rs 50 and rooms with bath start at Rs 75/200.

Hotel Welcome ((485375), opposite the bus stand, has rooms with bath from Rs 95/125.

Elsewhere If you don't mind staying away from the heart of the old city, there are some decent budget options.

Lake Shore Hotel (no phone), south of Chandpol, across from the City Palace on the opposite side of Lake Pichola, is a mellow place and has a terrace with marvellous views over the water. Basic but neat singles/doubles with common bath are Rs 100/200. There are more expensive rooms with bath and lake views. The restaurant here is very good; baked potatoes with garlic cheese costs Rs 40.

Hotel Natural (( 527879, 55 Rang Sagar) is farther away from Lake Pichola but good if you want to escape the hustle and bustle. Basic doubles with bath start from Rs 150 (some rooms have Indian-style toilets). There's good veg food cooked with tender loving care.

Pahadi Palace ((420099, 18 Ambergarh, Swaroop Sagar), not far away, has spotlessly clean rooms and is good value for money. Well kept doubles with bath range from Rs 100 to Rs 750. this pleasant place is run by the affable Ansar Ahemed.

Mewar Inn (( 522090, 42 Residency Rd), is not in a very thrilling location at all, but may be worth considering if you're really strapped for cash. Basic singles/doubles with common bath are Rs 30/40. Rooms with bath start at Rs 69/79. A discount is given to THA members. There's a rooftop veg restaurant and bicycles for hire (Rs 15 per day).

Pratap Country Inn (( 583138, fax 583058) is a serene and secluded retreat at Titaradi village, about 7km outside Udaipur. Run by the charming Maharaj Narendra Singh, doubles with attached bath range from Rs 200 to Rs 1200. Horse riding is available and they also organise longer safaris - from US$100 per person per day. It can be tough getting a rickshaw out here (Rs 50). The hotel can pick you up from Udaipur with advance notice.

Places to Stay Mid-Range

Jagdish Temple Area Kankarwa Haveli (( 411457, fax 521403, 26 Lalghat), run by the helpful Janardhan Singh, is an excellent family-run haveli. Squeaky clean doubles range from Rs 400 to Rs 1200. The more expensive rooms overlook Lake Pichola. Book well in Ahead as this place fills up fast.

Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel(( 420133, fax 520023, 25 Lalghat), on the lake shore, has long been popular with travellers. This converted haveli has a very good restaurant which boasts tremendous lake views. Double rooms range from Rs 350 to Rs 1400.

Hotel Sai-Niwas((/fax 524909, 75 Navghat Marg), just down the hill towards the ghat from the City Palace entrance, is also heartily recommended. The seven double rooms are imaginatively decorated and range from Rs 800 to Rs 100. There's a good restaurant; lentil soup is Rs 40.

Ratan Palace Guest House (( 561153, 21 Lalghat ) is also popular. Double rooms cost from Rs 250 to Rs 450. The terrace has lake views and meals are available.

Hotel Caravanserai (( 411103, fax 521252, 14 Lalghat) is a modern place that offers nice rooms from Rs 300 to Rs 1195. The food at the rooftop restaurant is average, but it has good lake views and live Indian classical music in the evening.

Lake Palace Rd Area This area is central but farther away from Lake Pichola than the hotels in the Jagdish temple area.

Rang NiwasPalace hotel (( 523890, fax527884) is one of the best mid-range options. In shady gardens, with a swimming pool, it's relaxed and friendly. There's accommodation in the old building, formerly a royal guesthouse, and also comfortable rooms in the new building. Doubles range from Rs 500 to Rs 2000. There are also two budget rooms with common bath (Rs 350).

The Hotel Raj Palace(( 527092, fax 410395, 103 Bhattiyani Chotta) is also a good place to stay. There's a small dorm (Rs 75), and double rooms from Rs 250 to Rs 950. There's also a lush courtyard restaurant that serves excellent food.

The Hotel Vishnupriya (Quality Inn) (( 421313, fax420314, 9 garden Rd), near Gulab Bagh, has rooms from Rs 995/1495.

Fateh Sagar Area There are hotels around Udaipur's other major lake, Fateh Sagar, however these are a little inconveniently located away from the old city. Although they lack the panache of the hotels around Lake Pichola, they are away from the hustle and bustle. Options include the Hotel Lakend (( 415100, fax 523898), Hotel Rampratap Palace (( 528701, fax 528700, 5B Alkapuri), Hotel Anand Bhawan (( 523256, fax 523247) and Hotel Gulab Niwas ((/fax 523644).

Elsewhere Both of the hotels below are across from the City Palace, on the opposite side of Lake Pichola.
Wonder View Palace (( 522996), a little out of town south of Chandpol, has average rooms from Rs 400/500.

Udai Kothi (( 524002), nearby, was being built at the time of writing and will boast Udaipur's only rooftop swimming pool. Doubles are expected to cost Rs 600 to Rs 800.

Places to Stay - Top End

The Lake Pichola Hotel (( 421197, fax 410575), out of the old city, south of Chand pol, is the best of the lower priced top-range hotels. It's superb location with stunning views of the ghats and City Palace (go up to the roof top terrace to really soak in the view). Singles/doubles cost Rs 975/1000, but it's worth spending Rs 1150/1195, which gets you a balcony and lake view.

Trident ((419393, fax 410575), is a bit inconveniently located beyond Chandpol, but is Udaipur's slickest hotel. Hidden in the hills, it is part of the Oberoi Group, and offers singles/doubles from Us $125/140. The multicuisine restaurant is excellent and even has frothy cappuccinos. Don't miss the wild boar feeding frenzy.

Laxmi Vilas Palace Hotel (( 529711, fax 526273) is between Swaroop Sagar and Fateh Sagar, up on the hill. It's a pleasant four star ITDC place where air-con rooms cost US$115/130. There's a bar, restaurant and swimming pool

Hotel Hilltop Palace (( 521997, fax 525106), in the same area, is a modern hotel boasting a remarkable 360º view of Udaipur. Rooms start at Rs 1350/2100; although well kept, this place has somewhat sterile ambience.

Shikarbadi Hotel (( 583201, fax 584841), 3 km out of town on the Ahmedabad road, is the perfect place to go for serenity and fresh air. Once a royal hunting lodge, it's set in beautiful grounds and has a pool. Smart singles/doubles cost Rs 1195/ 2395. A stud farm on the premises offers short horse rides as well as longer safaris. Sip tea while you watch the wild boar feeding (4 pm each day).

Lake Palace Hotel (( 527961, fax 527974), which appears to be floating in the middle of Lake Pichola, is one of the world's most spectacular hotels. It's the very image of what a maharaja's palace should be like and most people with sufficient money would not pass up an opportunity to stay here. This swanky white palace has a bar, restaurant, little shopping arcade, open air courtyards, lotus ponds, and a small swimming pool. The cheapest doubles are US$210 (no lake view); US$245 gets you a lake view. Sumptuous suites cost US$325 to US$550. Needless to say, you need to book well in advance.

Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel (( 528016, fax 528006, email resv@hrhindia.com) is part of the City Palace complex, and is another atmospheric palace/hotel. The cheapest rooms (US$100) aren't really great value. It's better to get a room around the pool which start from US$250 a double (room 16 has fine views over the lake). There's a good restaurant, bar, holistic health centre, and marble pool (open to nonresidents for Rs 240 including towel). A small bagpipe (!) band strikes up a merry tune each evening. It's wise to also book well ahead here, as demand for rooms is high.

Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel (( 528016, fax 528006), also in the City Palace complex, was built in the early 20th century during the reign of Maharana Fateh Singh. The cheapest rooms are US$100, but these are not in the main palace. More ornate rooms furnished with traditional palace pieces cost US$200/250 a single/double (some with a lake view). The intimate Gallery Restaurant has brilliant views across the lake.

Places to Eat
Udaipur has scores of rooftop cafes catering to budget travellers, as well as fine dining at the top-end hotels. Many of the budget restaurants try to lure customers by putting on a nightly screening of the James Bond movie Octopussy, which was partly filmed in Udaipur. These days, contemporary cult movies are also screened.

Sunset view Terrace, ideally situated on a terrace overlooking Lake Pichola, is the place to be at sunset. Part of the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel, this place is worth visiting for the views alone (don't forget your camera). Live Indian classical music is played in the late afternoon and the menu offers a range of snacks such as pizzas (Rs 110), burgers (Rs 90) and milk shakes (Rs 50).

Ambrai is worth visiting purely for the superb location - unlike other restaurants, it sits at water level. It is just beyond the Lake Pichola Hotel at Chand pol. It serves Indian, Chinese and continental cuisine and is also a great place to kick back with a beer.
El Parador, out on the Fateh Sagar area (opposite the Ayurvedic College & Hospital on Ambamata Rd), is highly recommended. This is one of the only places in Rajasthan which makes real percolated coffee (Rs 60 per heavenly pot)! It's run by a friendly family who whips up a range of moderately priced Italian, Greek, Mexican and French cuisine.

Mayur Café, by the Jagdish Temple, has long been popular, although travellers give mixed reports about the food and service. There are south Indian dishes as well as western alternatives; spaghetti with cheese is Rs 30.

Maxim's Café, nearby, is better value and not as indifferent to travellers as the Mayur Café. Menu items include paneer tikka (Rs 20) and Rajasthani pizza (Rs 22). Not far away is the Anna Restaurant, which is also good for a cheap chow down.

Samor Bagh, at the Lake Palace Rd entrance to the City Palace, has Indian, Chinese and continental food. Their speciality is paneer pasanda (Rs 50). You can sit in the large 'hut' or out in the garden.

Restaurant Natural View, on the rooftop of the Evergreen Guest House, has lovely lake views but is a bit overpriced. It serves Indian, Chinese and continental fare; chicken palak is Rs 55.

Roof Garden Café, around the corner from the Rang Niwas Palace Hotel, facing the City Palace, looks like the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. The setting is more exiting than the food; chicken curry is Rs 45.

Café Hill Park, south-west of the Sajjan Miwas Gardens on a hill overlooking Lake Pichola, is worth a visit just for the views. This rather remshakle café offers Indian, continental and Chinese fare.

Park View is opposite the park in the main part of town but there's absolutely no view. This dimly lit place is particularly good for its north Indian cuisine and is often packed with middle class Indian families. Prices are reasonable.

16 Chef Restaurant (16 Gyan Marg), inside Surajpol, is a possibility if you're short of cash. It has cheap vegetarian Indian, Chinese and some continental dishes (most below Rs 35).

Berry's Restaurant (Chetak Circle) has a sterile ambience but cooks up pretty good Indian dishes - the butter chicken is a hot seller.

Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel has a restaurant with superlative lake views and is recommended for a minor splurge. Their western dishes are rather pricey, but the Indian food is cheaper; palak paneer is Rs 50. It's wise to book ahead for dinner, as the place can fill up fast (call ( 420133).

Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel is highly recommended for an unforgettable dinning experience. There's seating indoors or the pleasant open-air courtyard by the pool. Their Indian food is best - try the aloo chutneywale, potatoes stuffed with Indian cottage cheese in a mango and mint chutney - for Rs 75. Indian classical music is performed each evening by the poolside, creating a magical ambience. Nonresidents are welcome, but it's a good idea to book in ahead (especially for dinner). Check out the plush bar while you're here.

Gallery Restaurant, at the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel, serves a set continental lunch/dinner for Rs 500/600. Although the food is nothing to write home about, this elegant little restaurant has beguiling views across Lake Pichola. For really romantic evening, come here at sunset for a drink, then enjoy the live Indian classical music while you dine. For a minor splurge, afternoon tea is served daily 3 to 5 pm. A 'full cream tea' costs Rs 125.

Lake Palace Hotel is, ofcourse the ultimate dinning experience, although there's no guarantee you'll get in, since it is usually only possible to get a table when the hotel is not full. The buffet lunch/dinner costs Rs 500/600 (including the boat crossing) and before your meal, you can take a drink at the pleasant bar. Reservations are essential, and reasonably tidy dress is expected. For something different, ask about their tiny floating pontoon, which arranges lunch/dinner for US$40 (maximum four people).
Hotel Natural, (See places to stay) has good veg food and also bakes delicious home-made birthday cakes for Rs 100. Ring Ritu (( 529573) to place your order.

Entertainment
Meera Kala Mandir (583176, Sector 11, Hiran Magari), near the Pars Theatre, has one-hour Rajasthani folk dance and music performances daily except Sunday at 7 pm from August to April. It costs Rs 60 per person. An auto-rickshaw from the City Palace are costs Rs 25.
Many hotels stage their own entertainment for guests - usually puppet shows or Rajasthani music/dance performances.

Shopping
Udaipur has oodles of little shops selling a jumble of things, from funky western clothing to traditional antique jewellery. The town is popular for its local crafts, particularly miniature paintings in the Rajput Mughal style. There's a good cluster of shops selling these on Lake Palace Rd, next to the Rang Niwas Palace Hotel, and others around the Jagdish Temple. Be prepared to bargain hard, as most places have ridiculously inflated prices for tourists.

Getting There & Away
Air The Indian Airlines office (( 410999) at Delhi Gate is open Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm and Sunday, 10 am to 2 pm. Indian Airlines operates flights to Delhi (US$95), Jaipur (US$70), Aurangabad (US$105), Jodhpur (US$55) and Mumbai (US$110).
Bus Destinations served by deluxe buses include Jaipur (Rs 200, nine hours), Ajmer (Rs 100, six hours), Kota/Bundi (Rs 100, six hours), Jodhpur (Rs 110, eight hours) and Chittorgarh (Rs 50, three hours).
There are quite a few private bus companies which operate to such places as Ahmedabad (Rs 80, six hours), Vadodara (Rs 120, eight hours), Mumbai (Rs 200, 16 hours), Delhi (Rs 200, 14 hours), Indore (Rs 150, 10 hours) and Mt Abu (Rs 70, five hours).
Train Lines into Udaipur are currently metre gauge only, but are scheduled to be converted to broad gauge - nobody is really sure when this will happen. It's quicker in most cases to catch a bus.
The Chetak Express takes 20 hours to get to Delhi and cost Rs 233/718 in 2nd/1st class. This train goes via Chittorgarh (Rs 76/184 1st/2nd class), Ajmer (Rs 125/370) and Jaipur (Rs 161/515). The Mewar Fast Express also does trip to Chittor (Rs 36/184).
Taxi There are plenty of taxis willing to take you to places around Udaipur. Many drivers will show you a list of ' official' rates to places like Mt Abu, Chittor and Jodhpur. Shop around, as you can often barter for better rates. For travel out of town, remember that taxis generally charge return trip fares even if you're only going one way.
Getting Around
To/From the Airport the airport is 25km from the city. There's no airport bus; an auto-rickshaw/taxi will cost at least Rs 150/190.
Auto-Rickshaw these are unmetred so you should agree on a fare before setting off. The standard fare for tourists anywhere within the city appears to be around Rs 20. If costs Rs 130 to hire an auto-rickshaws for half day of local sightseeing.
The commission system is in place with a vengeance, so most rickshaw drivers will desperately try to drag you to a place of their choice rather than yours' especially if you want to go to the Lal Ghat area. If that's the case, just ask for the Jagdish Temple, as all guest houses in that area are within easy walking distance of the temple. Some drivers will insist that the hotel of your choice has burnt down, suddenly closed, or the owner died in a freak accident! Don't be fooled by these far-fetched stories.
Bicycle You can hire bicycles all over town for around Rs 25 per day. Heera Cycle Store (( 523525), near the Hotel Badi Haveli in the old city, rents out bicycles/mopeds/motorcycles for Rs 25/150/300 per day.

AROUND UDAIPUR

Eklingji & Nagda
The little village of Eklingji, with a number of ancient temples, is only 22km north of Udaipur. The Shiva temple in the village itself was originally built in 734, although its present form dates from the rule of Maharana Raimal, between 1473 and 1509. The walled complex includes an elaborately pillared hall four faced Shiva image of black marble. The temple is open 4.15 to 6.45 am, 10.30 am to 1.30 pm and 5.15 to 7.45 pm (double check times, in case they have changed). Photography is not allowed. Avoid the temple on Monday (an auspicious day for devotees), as it can get very crowded. The maharana of Udaipur pays a visit on Monday evening
At the Nagda, about 1km off the road and 1km before Eklingji, are three old temples. The Jain temple of Adbudji is essentially ruined, but its architecture is quite interesting. The nearby Sas Bahu, or Mother and Daughter-in-Law, group has intricate architecture and carvings, including some erotic figures. You can reach these temples most conveniently by hiring a bicycle in Eklingji.
Heritage Resorts (( 0294-440392, fax 527549), at Lake Bagela in Nagda, is set in delightful, quiet grounds. Singles/doubles are Rs 1540/2900 and there's a small pool, restaurant (non guests welcome) and some good walks in the surrounding country side.
There are hourly local buses from Udaipur to Eklingji (Rs 15,40 minutes).

Haldighati
This site, 40km north of Udaipur, is the battlefield where Maharana Pratap valiantly defied the superior Mughal forces of Akbar in 1576. The only site of note is the chhatri to the warrior's horse, Chetak, a few kilometres away.

Nathdwara
The 18th century temple of Sri Nathji stands here, 48km north of Udaipur, and is an important shrine for Vaishnawavaite devotees. The black stone Vishnu image was brought here from Mathura in 1669 to protect it from Aurangazeb's destructive impulses. According to legend, when an attempt was later made to move the image, the gateway vehicle, a wagon, sank into the ground up to the axles, indicating that the image preferred to stay where it was!
Attendants treat the image like a delicate child, getting it up in the morning, washing it, putting its clothes on, offering it specially prepared meals and putting it down to sleep. It's a very popular pilgrimage site, and the temple opens and closes around the image's daily routine. It gets very crowded around 4.30 to 5 pm when Vishnu gets up after a siesta.
Nathdwara is also known for its pichwai paintings (religious paintings on cloth), which were first produced after the image of Vishnu was brought to the town.
RTDC's Hotel Gokul (( 02953 - 30917) offers single/doubles with bath for Rs 300/400, and dorm beds for Rs 50.
RSTC buses leave from Udaipur to Nathdwara every hour (Rs 20, 1 1/2 hours).

Kankroli & Rajsamand Lake
Farther north at Kankroli, Dwarkadhish (an incarnation of Vishnu) has a temple similar to the temple at Nathdwara and opening hours here are similarly erratic.
Nearby is a lake created by the dam constructed in 1660 by Maharana Raj Singh. There are many ornamental arches and chhatris along the huge bund (embankment).
There are hourly RSTC buses from Udaipur (Rs 30, 2 1/2 hours).

Kumbhalgarh
Eighty- four kilometres north of Udaipur, this is the most important fort in the Mewar region after Chittorgarh. It's a secluded place, built by Maharana Kumbha in the 15th century and, owing to its inaccessibility on top of the Aravalli range at 1100m, it was taken only once in its history. Even then, it took the combined armies of the Mugal emperor, Akbar, and those of Amber and Marwar to breach its defences. It was here that the rulers of Mewar retreated in times of danger. The walls of the fort stretch some 36km and enclose many temples, palaces, gardens and water storage facilities.
Hter's also a big wildlife sanctuary here, known for its wolves. The scarcity of water holes between March and June makes this the best time to see animals. Other wildlife includes chowsingha (four horned antelope), leopards and sloth bears. You need permission from the forest department in nearby Kelwara to enter the reserve, or from the Deputy Chief Wildlife Warden in Udaipur (( 0294-421361). There's an entry charge.
Aodhi Hotel (( 02954-4222, reservations ( 0294-528016, fax 529006) is by far the best place to stay. Rooms in this blissfully tranquil hotel cost Rs 1195/2395. There's a little bar, a restaurant (open to nonresidents) an inviting pool. Horse/jeep safaris can be arranged. This is a wonderful place to rejuvenate yourself. Nearby is the similarly priced Kumbhalgarh Fort Hotel (( 02954 - 42372, fax 525106).
Hotel Ratanadeep (( 02954-42217), at nearby Kelwara, is frther away from the fort, but has cheap doubles for Rs 400 with bath (most with Indian-style toilets). A dorm bed is Rs 100.
There are several daily RSTC buses from Udaipur (Rs 28, 3 1/2 hours) and one express bus each morning (Rs 35).

Ranakpur
The exceptionally beautiful Ranakpur complex, 60 km north of Udaipur, is one of the largest and most important Jain temples in India. It is tucked away in a remote valley of the Aravalli range and is certainly worth seeing.
The main temple is the Chaumukha Temple, or Four-Faced Temple, dedicated to Adinath. Built in 1439, this huge, superbly crafted and well-kept marble temple has 29 halls supported by 1444 pillars, no two alike. Within the complex are two other Jain temples to Nemnath and Parasnath and, a little distance away, a Sun Temple. One kilometre from the main complex is the Amba Mata Tample.
The temple complex is open daily to Jains from 6 am to 8.30 pm and to non Jains from 11 am to 5 pm. Shoes and leather articles must be left at the entrance. Admission is free but there's a Rs25/125 camera/video.

Places to Stay & Eat
Maharani Orchard Retreat (( 02934-85151, reservations ( 0291 - 433316, fax 625373) is 4km from Ranakpur and the best place to stay. Set in a lush mango orchard, it offers accommodation in cottages for Rs 1190/2100. Hearty buffet meals are available; lunch or dinner costs Rs 300 (non residents are Welcome)

RTDC's Hotel Shilpi (( 02934- 85074) is conveniently located near the temple complex and has rooms with bath from Rs 200/250. For the cash conscious, there's a dorm for Rs 50. A veg thali in the dining room is Rs 55.
The Castle (( 02934-85133) is set in large grounds and offers singles/doubles for Rs 600/700.
Dharamshala (( 02934-85019) (pilgrims' lodgings) within the temple complex has very basic accommodation for a donation. A veg thali is Rs 12.
Roopam Restaurant (( 02934 - 3921) has a few nice rooms for Rs 550/650 with bath. The restaurant offers a buffet (Rs 150) or ala carte dining (Rs 35 to Rs 60 for a main dish). A bottle of beer is Rs 80.

Getting There & Away From Udaipur there are frequent express buses (Rs 35, three hours).

Narlai & Ghanerao
Not too far from Ranakpur, Narlai can make an ideal base for exploration of the various attractions around Udaipur
Rawla Narlai (bookings through Ajit Bhawan ( 0291- 437410, fax 637774 in Jodhpur) has attractive rooms for Rs 1190/1795. Meals are available. Not far from the baoli (Step-well).
Deluxe buses from Udaipur take about 3 1/2 hours (Rs 70).
About 7km fromNarlai is the town of Ghanerao. The ghanerao Royal Castle (( 02934 - 84035), has rooms for Rs 1250/1500. There's a nice restaurant with breakfast/lunch/dinner for Rs 125/200/150, and jeep excursions can be organised.
An RSTC bus from Udaipur to Ghanerao takes about four hours (Rs 50).

Deogarh
The atmospheric little town of Deorgarh (pronounced 'Dev - gar') is 135km north of Udaipur and has a wonderful castle that has been converted into a hotel. It makes an ideal stopover between Udaipur and Jodhpur, Ajmer or Jaipur and is great place to catch up on some serious relaxation. While you're here. Check out the Anjeaneshwar Mahadev, an extraordinary cave temple believed to be around 2000 years old.
Deogarh Castle (( 02904-52777, fax 52555, email deogarh@hotmail.com) is a family-run hotel with character-filled doubles from Rs 2050 to Rs 3500. This well-managed castle has a good restaurant - request the rarely found palak ka halwa, a dessert made from spinach which sounds awful, looks awful, but tastes great ( kind of like semi burnt toffee). You can go on a 'rural ramble' jeep excursion for Rs 350 per person, including refreshments. A deluxe bus from Udaipur takes about three hours and costs Rs 60. There are also railway connections between Udaipur and Deogarh (Rs 24/150 in 2nd/1st class).

Jaisamand Lake
Located 48km south-east of Udaipur, this stunningly located artificial lake, created by damming the Gomti River, was built by Maharana Jaui Singh in the 17th century. It's one of the largest artificial lakes in Asia, and there are beautiful marble chhatris around the embankment. The summer palaces of the Udaipur queens are also here and there's a wildlife sanctuary nearby.
Jaisamand Island Resort (( 02906- 2222, reservations ( 0294-415100, fax 523898) is a modern hotel in a secluded position 20 minutes by boat across the lake. Rooms start at Rs 1150/2700.
There are frequent RSTC buses from Udaipur (rs 15, 1 1/2 hours).

Bambora
About 45km southeast of Udaipur, this sleepy little village has a 250-year old fort that has been converted into a impressive hotel.
Karni Fort (( 0291-432220, fax 433495 in Jodhpur) has a smart singles/doubles from Rs 2000/2500. The best room (on the 2nd floor) has a blissfully soft round bed with panoramic views over the countryside; it costs Rs 3750. There's a restaurant, secret tunnel and a gorgeous pool with four water-spurting marble elephants.

Dungarpur
About 110km south of Udaipur Dungarpur, the City of Hills, was founded in the 13th century. Points of interest include the government museum, with pieces dating from the 6th century, and the beautifully carved 12th century Deo Somnath Temple, about 25km out of town.
Udai Bilas Palace (( 02964-03808, fax 31008) is ideally located on the banks of a lake which attracts a variety of birdlife. Pleasant rooms cost Rs 1450/1900 and a capacious suites go for Rs 2600. A feature is the intricately carved Ek Thambia Mahal (one pillared palace). Meals are taken at the long dinning room table with stuffed beasts watching your every bite. The hotel can arrange a visit to Juna Mahal, a deserted old palace built in stages between the 13th and 18th centuries and filled with old frescoes, paintings and colourful glass inlay work.
Hotel Prathibha Palace(( 02964-30775), Shastri Colony, is good for shoestringers; tiny singles/doubles with bath start from Rs 50/100.
Frequent RSTC buses travel to Dungarpur fromUdaipur (Rs 35, three hours). There's also a slow train to Dungarpur (Rs 78/184 in 2nd/1st class).

Bhaneshwar
Each January/February the Bhaneshwar Fair is held at the Bhaneshwar Temple, about 80km from Dungarpur, attracting thousands of Bhil adivasis. Tents can be arranged through Fort Dhariyawad (see Sitamata Wildlife Sanctuary Area, later). The tents are comfortable, with attached bathroom but a minimum of 10 tents is required; the cost is Rs 5500 a double including all meals.

Bera
About 145km from Udaipur, Bera is an ideal place for leopard and other wildlife spotting.
Leopards Lair ((/fax 02933-43479) has comfortable modern cottages for Rs 4000/4500 a single/double. The price includes meals and two wild life safaris with the amicable thakur of Bera, Devi Singh.

Sitamata Wildlife Sanctuary Area
Located 65km southeast of Udaipur, the Sitamata Wildlife Sanctuary covers 423 sqkm of mainly deciduous forest. Wildlife includes deer, sambar, carcal and wild boar.
Teeki Magri Resort(( 0141-212235 in Jaipur0 is highly recommended if you're craving a secluded jungle retreat. There are just three brick-clay cottages which cost Rs 1100 a double (lighting is by lantern). Meals are available and the star-gazing is superb.this remote resort is run by Thakur Digvijay Singh and his son Brijraj, who accompany guests on village safaris and other excursions, in their 1945 American jeep. There are some rock carvings down a dry creek bed (wear strong shoes), believed to date back to the Mesolithic era (10,000 to 5000 years BC), you can also visit the owners' 17th century castle at Dhamotra, 22km away.
Advance bookings are essential. Contact Dhamotar House, 21 Surendra Pal colony, New Sanganer Rd, Jaipur.
Fort Dhariyawad(( 02950-20050, reservations ( 0141-201180) does not have the same jungle appeal but offers comfortable modern lodgings for Rs 1100 a double.