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CITY: SHEKHAVATI

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SHEKHAWATI

The semidesert Shekhawati region lies in the triangular area between Delhi, Jaipur and Bikaner. Starting around the 14th century, a number of Muslim clans moved into the area and the towns which developed in the region became important trading posts on the caravan routes emendating from the ports of Gujarat.
Although the towns have long since lost any importance they may once have had, what they have not lost is the beautiful painted havelis (mansions) constructed by the merchants of the region. Most of the buildings date from the 18th century to early this century, and the entire area has been dubbed by some as the 'open air gallery of Rajasthan'. There are also forts, a couple of minor castles, baolis (step wells), chhatris, and a handful of mosques.
The major towns of interest in the region are Fatehpur, Nawalgarh, Mandawa, Ramgarh and Jhunjhunu, although virtually every town has at least a few surviving havelis.

Lakshmangarh
Dominating this town is the 19th century fort, built by Lakshman Singh, the raja of Sikar. It has fine views down to the town which was laid out, like Jaipur, along a grid pattern. Some of the most interesting havelis here include the Char Chowk Haveli, the Rathi Family Haveli and the Shyonarayan Kyal Haveli.

Ramgarh
The town of Ramgarh was founded by the powerful Poddar merchant family in 1791, lowing a disagreement with the thakur. It had its heyday in the mid-19th century and was one of the richest towns in the area.
The Ram Gopal Poddar Chhatri near the bus stand, and the Poddar Havelis, near the Chatu Gate, are both worth checking out. This town is also known for its local handicrafts.

Fatehpur
Fatehpur was established in 1451 as a capital for Muslim nawabs but was taken by the Shekhawat Rajputs in the 18th century. Some of the main havelis of interest are the Mahavir Prasad Goenka Haveli, the Geori Shankar Haveli, the Nand Lal Devra Haveli and the Harikrishnan Das Sarogi Haveli.

Near the private bus stand are the remains of a large 17th century baoli. Sadly it is half-full with rubbish, and is in a pitful state of decay.

RTDC's Hotel Haveli (( 01571- 20293), about 500m south of the bus stand, has dorm beds for Rs 50, and singles/doubles with bath from Rs 300/400. There's a dinning hall; chicken curry is Rs 48, a curd lassi is Rs 13.

Mandawa
The compact and busy little market town of Manadawa was settled in the 18th century, and was fortified by the dominant merchant families. It is becoming increasingly popular with tourists, which would account for the mushrooming antique shops and commercial ambience.
Of the havelis, the Binsidhar Newatia Haveli has some curious paintings on its outer eastern wall - a boy using the telephone, and a European woman in a car driven by a chauffeur. The haveli is in the compound of the State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur. The Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli has some defaced erotic images.