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CITY: PUSHKAR

Telephone extension:  0145 
Population: 13,000 

PUSHKAR

Despite having a distinct touristy flavour these days, Pushkar is still a bewitching little town. It is right on the edge of the desert and is only 11km from Ajmer but separated from it by Nag Pahar, the Snake Mountain.
The traveller-friendly town clings to the side of the small Pushkar Lake with its many bathing ghats and temples. For Hindus, Pushkar is a very important pilgrimage centre and you'll see plenty of sadhus (individuals on a spiritual search).
Pushkar is perhaps best known for its Camel Fair which takes place here each October/November. This massive congregation of camels, cattle, livestock traders, pilgrims, tourists and filmmakers is one of the planets most incredible events. If you are anywhere within striking distance at the time, it's an event not to be missed.
Being a holy place, alcohol, meat and even eggs are banned.

Information
There is no tourist office in Pushkar, but there are lots of travel agents and it's easy to find your way around. At the time of writing the State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur only changed travellers cheques (not currency) - the wait can be long and the staff brusque. Currency (and travellers cheques) can be changed at moneychangers scattered along Sardar Bazaar Rd. On the same road are a number of places offering Internet services.

Temples
Pushkar boasts temples, though few are as ancient as you might expect at such an important pilgrimage site, since many were desecrated by Aurangazeb and subsequently rebuilt. The most famous is the Brahma Temple, said to be one of the few temples in the world dedicated to this deity. It's marked by a red spire, and over the entrance gateway is the hans, or goose symbol, of Brahma, who is said to have personally chosen Pushkar as its site.
The one hour trek up to the hilltop Savitri Temple overlooking the lake is best made early in the morning; the view is magical.

Ghats
Numerous ghats run down to the lake, and pilgrims are constantly bathing in the lake's sacred waters. If you wish to join them, do it with respect, remember this is a holy place. Remove your shoes, don't smoke, refrain from kidding around and do not take photographs. 

Camel Fair
The exact date on which the Camel Fair is held depends on the lunar calender but, in Hindu chronology, it falls on the full moon of Kartik Purnima, when devotees cleanse away their sins by bathing in the holy lake. Each year, up to 200,000 people flock to Pushkar for the Camel Fair, bringing with them some 50,000 camels and catle for several days of pilgrimage, livestock trading, horse dealing and sprited festivities. There are camel races, street theatre and a variety of stalls selling interesting handicrafts. The place becomes a flurry of activity with musicians, mystics, comedians, tourists, traders, animals and devotees all converging on the small town. It's truly a feast for the eyes, so don't forget to bring your camera.
It's strongly recommended that you get to the fair several days prior to the pfficial commencement date in order to see the camel and cattle trading at its peak. Although the place assumes a carnival atmosphere, the Camel Fair is taken very seriously by livestock owners, who come from all over the country with the sole intent of trading. A good camel can fetch tens of thousands of rupees and is a vital source of income for many villagers.
This fair is the only one of its kind in the world and has featured in numerous magazines, travel shows and films. It can get noisy at nights so if you're a light sleeper, bring earplugs. Carry appropriate allergy medication if you are affected by dust and/or animal hair.
See the Festivals of Rajasthan table at the beginning of this chapter for forthcoming dates. 

Pushkar Passport
You can tell a traveller who's been to the ghats in Pushkar by the red ribbon (the 'Pushkar Passport') tied around their waist. Getting one can be an expensive procedure if you allow yourself to be bullied into a more generous donation than you might otherwise have wanted to give. Priests, some genuine, some not, will approach you near the ghats and offer to do a puja. At some point during the prayers they'll ask you to tell Brahma how much you're going to give him, Rs 100 to Rs 400 being the suggested figure (although some travellers have even been asked for US dollars!). don't fall for this emotional blackmail - if you want to give just Rs 10, that's fine, although the ''priest' will probably tell you it's not enough and dosent even cover the cost of the 'materials'. It's best to telll him in advance how much you will give to avert a scene later. Many visitors have chopped verbal abuse if they do not shell out the cash demanded by the priest. Some clever travellers now wear a red ribbon prior to visiting the lake in order to avoid being approached by a priest.
A current 'scam' involves 'priests' giving a traveller a flower. Once you take it, you are then asked to throw it into the holy lake - for a price! To avoid a scene, it's best not to take any flowers offered to you at all.
Unfortunately more and more travellers are reporting problems with some pushy priests at Pushkar. If you feel strongly about it, try lodging a written complaint with the tourist office in nearby Ajmer.

Places to Stay

Most hotels in Pushkar are nothing fancy, but they're generally clean and freshly whitewashed. You should ask to see a few rooms before deciding, as many have a cell-like atmosphere owing to the tiny or nonexistent windows. Be warned that most hotel tariffs blow sky high during the Camel Fair, when demand for rooms is exceptionally high.

Pushkar Town Hotel Pushkar Palace (( 72001, fax 72226), near the lake, is the most popular place to stay and highly recommended. Once belonging to the maharaja of Kishangarh, the cheapest rooms cost Rs 150/200 with common bath. These are cramped but right by the lake. Better rooms with bath range from Rs 550/600 to Rs 1100/1195. The most expensive rooms have superlative views. There's a good restaurant (see places to Eat).

RTDC's Hotel Sarovar (( 72040) is next to the Hotel Pushkar Palace but approached from a different entrance. Set in its own spacious grounds at the far end of the lake and with a restaurant, it has more character than most other RTDC places, although some travellers have complained about the poor levels of cleanliness. Singles/doubles with common bath cost Rs 125/200, Rs 250/300 with attached bath. Lake view rooms cost Rs 325/500. There are also dorm beds for Rs 50.

VK Tourist Palace (( 72174), also in this area, is a popular cheapie with acceptable rooms from Rs 75/150 with common bath, Rs 150/250 with private bath. There's a good rooftop restaurant.

Hotel Venus (72323), nearby, offers singles/doubles with bath for Rs 100/150. Set in a shady garden, there's also a popular restaurant upstairs. The owner, Himmat Singh, is a helpful chap who will enthusiastically answer any questions you may have about Pushkar. Krishna Guest House (( 72091) and Om Hotel (( 72672) are other cheap options in this area.

Hotel Poornima (( 72254), near the Ajmer bus stand, has rooms with attached bath for Rs 60/100.

Bhagwati Guest House (( 72423), nearby, is very cheap, with small singles/doubles going for Rs 40/60 with common bath. Larger doubles with bath range from Rs 80 to Rs 125. the owner, Chandu, and the restaurant, are both great.

Oasis Hotel ((72100), across the road, is a big place with rooms from Rs 125/150 with private bath. There's a pool and restaurant.

Peacock Holiday Resort (( 72093, fax 72516), on the outskirts of town, is in a pleasant setting but gets mixed reports from travellers. There's a shady courtyard and a swimming pool with a slide. Standard singles/double cost Rs 300/450.

Hotel New Park (( 72464, fax 72244), also in this area, is more peaceful and good value for money. Well-kept singles/doubles start from Rs 100/150 with private bath. There's also a restaurant and pool.

Prince Hotel (( 72674), closer to the lake, is quite primitive but undeniably cheap. It has rooms for Rs 50/80 with common bath, Rs 100 for a double with bath.

Sai Baba Guest House (no Phone) nearby is a very mellow and ideal if you're low on cash. Somewhat gloomy rooms are just Rs 40/70 with common bath. Close by is the Konika Guest House (no Phone), which has five clean doubles with bath from Rs 100.

Hotel Kanahaia ((72146), also in this area, has clean doubles without/with attached bath for Rs 100/200.

Hotel White House (( 72147), north of the lake, is an appealing place with fine views from the rooftop restaurant. Rooms cost Rs 80/150 with common bath and Rs 200/300 with private bath. Their mango tea is refreshing.

Mayur Guest House (( 72302), closer to the lake, is an unpretentious place with rooms for Rs 40/60 with common bath; Rs 80/100 with bath. Only breakfast is available.

Payal Guest House (( 72163), right in the middle of the main bazaar, is a travellers' favourite. It's a relaxed and homey place with rooms from Rs 50/100 with common bath, or Rs 100/150 with private bath. There's a banana tree shaded courtyard and a resident rabbit. Meals are available and there's even a small bakery.

Lake View (( 72106) is across the road and has some rooms with good views of the lake. Double rooms are Rs 100/150 with common/attached bath.

Hotel Paramount (( 72428) has fine views over the lake. Doubles with common bath are Rs 100. The best rooms (Nos 106, 108, 109 and 111) have private baths and a balcony (around Rs 450).

OK Palace Pushkar (( 72868) - good if you're suffering a cash crunch. Singles/doubles with common bath go for Rs 40/80, or doubles with bath cost Rs 100).

Jagat Singh Palace Hotel (( 72953, fax 72952), a little out of the main town area, is one of the most upmarket places in Pushkar. Designed like a fort, well-furnished singles/doubles cost around Rs 1500/1700. There's a large garden, restaurant and a pool is planned.

Pushkar Resorts (( 72017, fax 72946, email pushkar@pushkarresorts.com), 5km out of town, is also suitably luxurious. There are 40 modern cottages which are comfortable but a little lacking in character. All have air-con and TV and cost Rs 1695/1995 a single/double. There's a dining hall (residents only), a swimming pool and restaurant.
JP's Tourist Village Resort (( 72067, fax 72026) is also a little out of town, but is a peaceful place to stay. Comfortable doubles with attached bath range from Rs 400 to Rs 750. It costs Rs 150 per person to inhabit the tree house. There's also a swimming pool and restaurant.

Tourist Village
During the Camel Fair, the RTDC and many private operators set up a sea of tents near the mela (fair) ground. It can get quite cold at night, so bring something warm to wear. A torch (flashlight may also be useful. Demand for tents is high so you're strongly advised to book well ahead.
RTDC's Tourist village (( 72074) has dormitory tents for UD$7 per person, and standard single/double tents with common bath for US$69/84, including all meals. There are also more upmarket tents with attached bath for US$105/119 and deluxe huts for US$119/132, including meals. These huts are open all year round, and are significantly cheaper outside fair time. To book, contact the General Manager, Central Reservations (( 0141 - 202586 fax 201045, RTDC's Hotel Swagatam Campus, Near Railway Station, Jaipur. Full payment must be received 45 days in advance if you want to be sure of accommodation.
Royal Tents, owned by the maharaja of Jodhpur, seem to be the most luxurious tents, but you'll pay for this privilege. They cost US$175/225 a single/double with private bath (bucket hot water), including all meals. Reservations should be made in advance at the Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur (( 0291 - 433316, fax 635373)
Royal Desert Camp, farther away from the fairground, is another good option with tents for US$90/100 with bath and running showers. There are also some cheaper tents with shared bathroom. The price includes all meals and a 'camel shuttle service' to and from the fair. Book well ahead through the Hotel Pushkar Palace in Pushkar (( 72001, fax 72226).

Places to Eat
Pushkar has plenty of reasonably priced eating-places. Strict vegetarianism that forbids even eggs rather limits the range of ingredients, but the cooks make up for this with imagination. You can even get an egg less omelette in some places!
Buffet meals are popular, with many places offering all-you -can-eat-meals for Rs 25 to Rs 40. German Bakeries seem to be all the rage.

Hotel Pushkar Palace is a good place to dine, and you can eat in the restaurant or out in the relaxing garden. Palak paneer is Rs 60, mango lassi is Rs 25 and the buffet lunch is Rs 100. There's also a small bakery here; a croissant costs Rs 10.

Sunset Café, nearby has long been a popular hangout with travellers - a good place to swap stories about Goa, Kathmandu and beyond. This simple café offers the usual have-a-go-at-anything menu, and includes dosas Rs 20) and sizzlers (from Rs 50 to Rs 75). There's a German bakery too. The location by the lake shore is pleasant, especially at sunset, however the service can be sluggish.

Om Shiva, near State Bank of Bikaneer & Jaipur, offers reasonably priced and tasty buffets (Rs 40), but the service is variable.

Venus Restaurant, at the Hotel Venus, has a multicuisine restaurant on the rooftop, which is a great place to kick back and watch the world go by. A veg thali is Rs 30 and a banana lassi is Rs 10.

Moon Dance has tables in a laid-back garden and serves a wide range of food, including good Indian, Mexican, Italian and even Thai dishes; a spinach and mushroom enchilada is Rs 45 and a cup of soothing cinnamon tea is Rs 5.

Raju Garden Restaurant serves a mish mash of western, Chinese and Indian fare. The prices are a little high, but the selection is good. If your tummy is screaming for something simple, try the baked potatoes (Rs 45). Birthday cakes can be ordered here (with advance notice); they range from a meek Rs 65 to a mind-blowing Rs1000!

Sun-n-Moon, not far from the Brahma Temple, has tables around a bodi tree, and is a peaceful place to eat. It offers a variety of western and Indian food such as Kashmiri burgers (Rs 45).

Shopping
Pushkar's main bazaar is a tangle of narrow lanes lined with an assortment of interesting little shops - ideal for picking up gifts for friends back home. It's especially good for costume jewellery and embroidered fabrics such as wall hangings and groovy shoulder bags. A lot of what is stocked here actually comes from the Barmer district south of Jaisalmer and other tribal areas of Rajasthan. You'll have to haggle over prices, as Pushkar has long been exposed to tourists with money to burn and not much time to burn it. There's the usual nonsense about 'last price' quotes which aren't negotiable - take your time and visit a few shops. In between these shops are the inevitable clothing shops catering to styles which were in vogue at the end of the 1060s. You may find occasional timeless items, but much of it is pretty clichéd.
The music shops, on the other hand, are well worth a visit if you're keen to pick up some traditional, contemporary or fusion music. 
There are a number of bookshops in the main bazaar selling a tremendous range of second-hand novels in various languages, and they'll usually buy them back for around 50% of what you pay.

Getting There & Away
To Pushkar, buses depart Ajmer frequently for Rs 5 (although it's only Rs 4 when going from Pushkar to Ajmer - because of the road toll; for cars the toll is Rs 25). It's a spectacular climb up and over the hills and you never know quite what to expect around each turn.
There are some travel agencies in Pushkar offering tickets for private buses to various destinations - shop around for the best price. These buses generally leave from Ajmer, but the agents should provide you with free transport to Ajmer in time for the departures. See the Ajmer section for destinations. For around Rs 50, some agents will book rail tickets for services ex-Ajmer (including a free jeep transfer to Ajmer).

Getting Around
Fortunately there are no auto-rickshaws in the town centre, but it's a breeze to get around by foot. Another good option is to hire a bicycle (Rs 4/25 per hour/day). A wallah can carry your luggage on a hand drawn cart to or from the bus stand for Rs 10.

© rhombus films, 2006 A.D.