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CITY: MOUNT ABU

Telephone extension: 02974
Population: 18,000

MOUNT ABU

Mt Abu, sprawling along 1200m high plateau in the south of the state, close to the Gujarat border, is Rajasthan's only hill station. It's a pleasant hot-season retreat from the plains of both Rajasthani and Gujarat. Mt Abu's pace is easy going, although it can get ridiculously crowded in the summer months.
Mt Abu has a number of important temples, particularly the breathtaking Dilwara group of Jain temples, 5km away. This is an important pilgrimage centre for Jains and boasts some of the finest marble carvings in all of Rajasthan, if not India. Also, like some other hill stations in India, Mt Abu has its own lake, which is the centre of activity.

Orientation & Information
Mt Abu is on a hilly plateau about 22km long by 6km wide, 27km from the nearest train station (Abu Road). The main part of the town extends along the road in from Abu Road, down to Nakki Lake.
The Tourist Reception Centre ((43151) is opposite the main bus stand and is open Monday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2 to 5 pm. Money can be changed at the State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur.

Nakki Lake
Nakki Lake is virtually in the heart of Mt Abu and is a big attraction with tourists. The lake takes its name from the legend that it was scooped out by a god, using only his nails, or nakh. It's a pleasant stroll around the lake- look for the strange rock formations. The best-known, Toad rock, looks just like a toad about to hop into the lake. Others, like Nun Rock, Nandi Rock or Camel Rock, require more imagination. The 14th century Raghunathan Temple stands beside the lake. You can hire your own boat (Rs 25 for 30 minutes).
On the lake is a dilapidated concrete boat-shaped snack bar (only serving tea and coffee)

Viewpoints
Of the various viewpoints around town, Sunset Point is the most popular. Hordes stroll out here every evening to catch the setting sun. other popular spots include honeymoon Point, which also offers a view of the sunset, The Crags and Robert's Spur. You can follow the white arrows along a path up to the summit of Shanti Shikar, west of Adhar Devi temple, where there are panoramic views.
For a good view over the lake, the best point is probably the terrace of the maharaja of Jaipur's former summer palace. No one seems to mind if you climb up here for the view and a photo.

Brahma Kumaris Spiritual University & Museum
The Brahma Kumaris teach that all religions lead to god and so are equally valid, and the principles of each should be studied. The university's stated aim is the establishment of universal peace through ' the impartation of spiritual knowledge and training of easy raja yoga meditation'. There are over 4500 branches in 70 countries around the world; to do a residential course at the university, you need to contact your local branch. You can, however, attend an introductory course (seven lessons) while you're in Mt Abu; this would take a minimum of three days. There's no charge - the organisation is entirely supported by donations.
There's a museum (free) in the townoutlining the university's teachings and offering meditation sessions. It's open daily 8 am to 8 pm

Adhar Devi Temple
Three kilometres north of town, some 365 steps lead to this Durga temple built in a natural cleft in the rock. You have to stoop to get through the low entrance to the temple. There are fine views over Mt Abu from up here.

Dilwara Temples
These remarkable Jain temples are Mt Abu's main attraction and among the finest examples of Jain architecture in India. The complex includes two temples in which the art of carving marble reached unsurpassed heights.
The older of the temples is the Vimal Vashai, built in 1031 and dedicated to the first tirthankar, Adinath. The central shrine has an image of Adinath, while around the courtyard are 52 identical cells, each with a Buddha-like cross-legged image. Forty-eight elegantly carved pillars from the entrance to the courtyard. In front of the temple stands the House of Elephants, with figures of elephants marching in procession to the temple entrance.
The later Tejpal Temple is dedicated to Neminath, the 22nd tirthankar, and was built in 1230 by the brothers Tejpal and Vastupal. Like Vimal, they were ministers in the government of the ruler of Gujarat. Although the Tejpal Temple is important as an extremely old and complete example of a Jain temple, its most notable feature is the marble carving. The carving is so fine that, in places, the marble becomes almost transparent. In particular, the lotus flower which hangs from the centre of the dome is an astonishing piece of work. It's difficult to believe that this huge lace-like filigree actually started as a solid block of marble. The temple employs several full time stone carvers to maintain and restore the work. There are three other temples in the enclosure, but they all pale beside Tejpal and Vimal Vashai. There's a festival here in June (dates vary according to the lunar calendar).
The complex is open from noon to 6pm (Jains can visit from sunrise to sunset). Photography is not allowed. As at other Jain temples, all articles of leather (belts as well as shoes) have to be left at the entrance. You can stroll out to Dilwara from the town in less than an hour, or take a share taxi for Rs 3 from opposite the Madras Café in the centre of the town.

Organised Tours
The RTDC has five-hour tours of all the main sites, leaving from the main bus stand at 8.30 am and 1.30 pm (later in summer). The tour cost Rs 35 plus all entry and camera fees. The afternoon tour finishes at Sunset Point.

Places to Stay
There is a plethora of hotels in Mt Abu. The high season is from mid-April to mid-November. As most hotel owners raise prices to whatever the market will bear at this time, Mt Abu can be an expensive place to stay. During Diwali (October/November), rooms are virtually unobtainable without advance booking and the tariffs are exorbitant.
In the low season (with the exception of Christmas and New year), discounts of up to 50% are available and mid range accommodation can be an absolute bargain. Negotiate a deal with the hotel staff. The hotels usually have an ungenerous 9 am checkout time and many also levy a 10% tax.
At all times of the year there are plenty of touts working the bus and taxi stands. In the low season you can safely ignore them; at peak times they can save you a lot of leg work as they'll know exactly where the last available room is.
Paying Guest House accommodation is available in Mt Abu. Contact the Tourist Reception Centre for details.

Places to Stay- Budget

Hotel Lake View (( 38659) overlooks picturesque Nakki Lake and, although the views are certainly good, it's really only an average hotel. In winter, doubles start from Rs 200 with bath (hot water is available between 7 am and 11 am).

Hotel Panghat (( 38886), nearby, is better value. There are rooms with lake views, TV attached bath (hot water 7 to 10 am) from Rs 150.

Shri Ganesh Hotel (( 43591), up the hill towards the maharaja of Jaipur's old summer palace, is a popular place with travellers. It's quite location and the rooms are not bad considering the price. Doubles with bath are Rs 100 in the low season. As this place is a little farther from the centre of things, the high season rates tend to be a little more sensible than elsewhere (Rs 350- a double), and bargaining is possible. Only breakfast is available.

RTDC's Hotel Shikhar (( 38944), back from the main road and up a steepish path, is a huge place with ordinary singles/doubles from Rs 200/275 with bath. A dorm bed is Rs 50.

Hotel Chanakya (( 43438) charges Rs 450 in the low season for a comfortable double with attached bath and constant hot water. In the high season prices shoots up to Rs 950

Hotel Saraswati (( 38887, fax 38337), nearby, is a good value. There are well kept doubles for Rs 100, and a range of other rooms from Rs 150 to Rs 350. The vegetarian restaurant serves tasty Gujarati thalis (Rs 40).

Hotel Polo View (( 43487), Hotel Surya Darshan (( 43165) and hotel New Mount View (( 38279), also in this area, all charge around Rs 250 for a room with bath.

Places To Stay- Mid Range

Mount Hotel ((43150) is a homey place ina tranquil location along the road to the Dilwara temples. It once belonged to a British army officer and has changed little since those days. The rooms are a bit worn and weary, but the owner, Jimmy and his dog, Spots, are friendly and you'll have no hassles here whatsoever. Doubles range from Rs 400 to Rs 600. Vegetarian meals (Rs 90) are available with advance notice. Jimmy can organise horse safaris.

Hotel Lake Palace (v 43254), across from the lake, has singles/doubles/triples for Rs 600/750/900 in the high season; bargain hard in the low season and you should be able to slash at least 30% off these prices.

Hotel Sunset Inn (( 43194, fax 43515), on the western edge of Mt Abu, is a modern hotel with good doubles for Rs 650 and a 30% discount in the low season. The restaurant serves satisfying meals. The nearby

Hotel Savera Palace (( 43354) is not as good value foe money.

Suruchi Hill Resort (( 43577), at the bottom end of the polo ground, has doubles for Rs 690 in the high season, and there's a 50% off low season discount.

Hotel Maharana Pratap (( 38667, fax 38900), nearby, is a smart place with descent rooms from Rs 500 in the low season. The restaurant serves Indian, Chinese and Continental food.

Hotel Vrindavan ((43147), near the main bus stand, is a bit cheaper than other places in this category. Acceptable rooms range from Rs250 to Rs 450 in the low season.

Hotel Sheratone (( 43544), in the same area, has airy doubles from Rs 400 to Rs 750 in the low season; Rs 900 to Rs 1250 in the high season.
Hotel Samrat (( 43153) and hotel Navijan International (43173), on the main road, are basically the same hotel although they appear to be separate. Low-season rates in the Samrat are from Rs 550 for a double; the Navijan is a touch cheaper but less impressive.

Hotel Maharaja International (( 38114), directly opposite, is a little more upmarket, with doubles from Rs 590 (low season)

Places To Stay - Top End

Palace Hotel (Bikaner House) (( 38673, fax 38674), not far from the Dilwara temples, is the most atmospheric hotel in Mt Abu. It is a great place to chill out, replete with shady gardens, a private lake, tennis courts and restaurant (See Places to Eat). Once the summer residence of the maharaja of Bikaner, it is now run by the maharaja's amiable son-in-law). Singles/ doubles are a very reasonable Rs 1095/1350.

Cama Rajputana Club Resort (( 38205, fax 38412), nearby is a large place with comfortable doubles from Rs 1800. There's also a good restaurant.

Connaught House (( 38560, reservations ( 0291-433316, fax 635373), just east of town, has an English cottage feel and is homey place to stay. Owned by the maharaja of Jodhpur, it's perfect place to sit back with a good book. The rooms in the old building are Rs 1190/1950 and have more character than those in the new wing, which cost Rs 1190/1750. Meals are available (order in advance).

Hotel Sunrise Palace (( 43573, fax 38775), at the southern end of Mt Abu, is yet another former summer residence of a Rajput maharaja (this time the maharaja of Bharatpur). It lacks the panache of the above two places but is still comfortable enough Rooms range from Rs 650 to Rs 1450.

Hotel Hillock (( 38463, fax 38467), in the same area, is a flash place - large, spotlessly clean and well decorated, (although the outside of the building is quite ugly). Its tariff ranges from a healthy Rs 1790 to Rs 3790 (30% discount in the low season). There's a restaurant, bar and pool.

Hotel Hilltone (( 38391, fax 38395) is closer to town and has a swimming pool, restaurant, bar and sauna. It's a modern place with 68 comfortable doubles from Rs 1300 to Rs 2400 and cottages for Rs 2800; there's a 30% discount in the low season.

Kesar Bhavan Palace (( 38647) was under construction at the time of writing. Rooms are expected to cost Rs 900 to Rs 1150.

Places to Eat
Kanak Dining Hall, near the main bus stand, is a popular. The all-you-can-eat Gujrati thalis are perhaps the best in Mt Abu (Rs 45); there's seating indoors and outdoors.

Veena Restaurant is farther uphill, next to the junction at the bottom end of the polo ground. It's Gujarati thalis (Rs 40) are also excellent.
Shere Punjab Hotel, in the bazaar area, has reasonably priced Punjabi and Chinese food. They take delight in their brain preparations (brain pakora is Rs 30). There are also some more conventional creations.
Madras Café, is also in this area, is a pure veg place with an assortment of Indian and western fare. There are even Jain pizzas (no garlic, onion or cheese) for Rs 30. Meat eaters are catered for upstairs.
Kings Food, on the road leading don to the lake, has the usual have-a-go-at-any-thing menu and is good for a light bite.
Palace Hotel (Bikaner House) is the best place to go for a special meal. The set lunch or dinner costs Rs235 (veg), Rs 295 (non veg). It's a good idea to make an advance reservation.

Shopping
There are numerous shops an stalls selling all sorts of cheap souvenirs around Nakki Lake. In the evening, the town really comes to life and this is an enjoyable time to do some leisurely browsing.

Getting There & Away
As you enter Mt Abu, there's a toll gate where bus and car passengers are charged Rs 5, plus Rs 5 for a car. If you're travelling by bus, this is an irksome hold-up, as you have to wait until the collector painstakingly gathers the toll from each and every passenger (keep small change handy)

Bus From 6 am onwards, regular buses make the 27km climb from Abu Road station up to Mt Abu (Rs 15, one hour). Some RSTC buses go all the way to Mt Abu, while others terminate at Mt Abu Road, so make sure you get the one you want.
The bus schedule from Mt Abu is extensive, and for many destinations you will find a direct bus faster and more convenient than going down to Abu Road station and waiting for a train. Deluxe buses go to Jaipur (Rs 130, 11 hours), Ajmer (Rs 70, eight hours), Udaipur (Rs 70, five hours), Jodhpur (Rs 100, eight hours), Ahmedabad (R 100, six hours) and Surat (Rs 180, 10 hours).

Train Abu Road, the railhead for Mt Abu, is on the broad-gauge line between Delhi and Mumbai via Ahmedabad.

In Mt Abu there's a Railway Out Agency near the main bus stand (opposite the police station) which has quotas on most of the express trains out of Abu Road. It's open daily 10 am to 1 pm and 2 to 4pm (only until noon on Sunday).

From Abu Road, direct trains run to various destinations including Ajmer, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Ahmedabad and Agra. For Bhuj and the rest of the Kathiawar peninsula in Gujarat, change trains at Palanpur, 53km south of Abu Road.
Taxi A taxi, which you can share with up to five people, cost about Rs 200 from Abu Road. To hire a jeep for local sightseeing cost around Rs 800 per day (bargain hard and you may just bring it down).

Getting Around
Buses from the bus stand go to the various sites in Mt Abu, but it takes a little planning to get out and back without too much hanging around. For Dilwara it's easier to take a share taxi. These leave when full from opposite the Madras Café in the centre of town; the fare is Rs 3 per person.
There are no auto-rickshaws in Mt Abu, but it's relatively easy to get around on foot. Porters with trolleys can be hired for a small charge to transport your luggage - weary travellers can even be transported on the trolley!

AROUND MT ABU

Achalgarh
The Shiva temple of Achaleshwar Mahadeva, 11 km north of Mt Abu, has a number of interesting features, including a toe of Shiva, a brass Nandi and, where the Shiva lingam would normally be, a deep hole said too extend all the way to the underworld.
Outside, by the car park, three stone buffaloes stand around a tank while the figure of a king shoots at them with a bow and arrow. A legend states that the tank was once filled with ghee, but demons in the form of buffaloes came down and polluted the ghee - until the king shot them. A path leads up hill side to a group of colourful Jain temples with fine views out over the plains.

Guru Shikhar
At the end of the plateau, 15km from Mt Abu, is Guru Shikhar, the highest point in Rajasthan at 172m. a road goes almost all the way to the summit. At the top is the Atri Rishi Temple, complete with a priest and good views all around.

Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary
This 290 sq km sanctuary, 8km north-east of Mt Abu, is home to panthers, sambar, faxes, wild boar and bears. It's open 8 am to 5pm daily. Admission is Rs5/40 for Indians/foreigners. Vehicle entry is Rs 125, or Rs 15 for a motorcycle.

Gaumukh Temple
Down on the Abu Road side of Mt Abu, a small stream flows from the mouth of a marble cow, giving the shrine its name. There is also a marble figure of Nandi, Shiva's vehicle. The tank here, Agni Kund, is said to be the site of the sacrificial fire made by the sage Vasishta, from which four of the great Rajput clans were born. An image of Vasishta is flanked by figures of Rama and Krishna.

ABU ROAD
This station down on the plains is the rail junction for Mt Abu. The train station and bus stand are right next to each other on the edge of town. Although there are RSTC buses from Abu Road to other cities such as Jodhpur, Jaipur, Udaipur and Ahmedabad, there's little point in catching them here as they're all available from Mt Abu.
Retiring rooms at the train station are convenient if you're catching an early morning train. They go for Rs 120 a double; a veg thali is Rs 35.