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CITY: KOTA

Telephone extension: 0744
Population: 640,000

KOTA

Following the Rajput conquest of this area of Rajasthan in the 12th century, Bundi was chosen as the capital, with Kota as the land grant of the ruler's eldest son. This situation continued until 1624 when Kota became a separate state, remaining so until it was integrated into Rajasthan after Independence.
Building of the city began in 1264 following the defeat of the Bhil chieftains, but Kota didn't reach its present size until well into the 17th century, when Rao Madho Singh, a son of the ruler of Bundi, was made ruler of Kota by the Mughal emperor, Jehangir. Subsequent rulers have all added to the fort and palaces with stand here now.
Today, Kota serves as an army headquarters. It's also Rajasthan's industrial centre (mainly chemicals), powered by the hydroelectric plants on the Chambal River - the nearby nuclear plant. The latter made headlines in 1992 when it was revealed that levels of radioactivity in the area were way above 'safe' levels. Most travellers prefer to visit Kota on a day trip from Bundi.

Orientation & Information
Kota is strung out along the east bank of the Chambal River. The train station is well to the north; a number of other hotels and the bus stand are in the centre.
The Tourist Reception Centre (( 327695) is in the grounds of the RTDC's Hotel Chambal. Its open Monday to Saturday 10 am to 5 pm. The State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur, at Industrial Estate (opposite Rajasthan Patricka), changes travellers cheques and currency.]]

City Palace & Fort
Beside the Kota Barrage, overlooking the Chambal River, the City Palace and fort is one of the largest such complexes in Rajasthan. Some of its buildings are now occupied by schools, but most of the complex is open to the public. Entry is from the south side through the Naya Darwaza, or New Gate.

The Rao Madho Singh Museum, in the city Palace, is excellent. It's on the right hand side of the complex's huge central courtyard and is entered through a gateway topped by rampant elephants. Inside, you'll find well-displayed weapons, old costumes stuffed beasts, and some of the best-preserved murals in the state. The museum is open daily except Friday 10 am to 4.30 pm. Entry is Rs 7/50 for Indians/foreigners, plus Rs 50/75 for camera/video.

Jagmandir
Between the City Palace and the RTDC's Hotel Chambal is the picturesque artificial tank of Kishore Sagar, constructed in 1346. In the middle of the tank, on a small island, is the enchanting little palace of Jagmandir. Built in 1740 by one of the maharajas of Kota, it's best seen early in the morning but is exquisite at any time of day. It's not currently open to public, but you can take a close look at it by taking a boat (daily except Monday 10 am to 5 pm). The cost is Rs 60 per boat for a 15-minute ride.

Brij Vilas Palace Museum
Near the Kishore Sagar, this small government museum is not as good as the City Palace museum. It has a collection of stone idols and other fragments, mainly from the archaeological sites at Baroli and Jhalawar. It's open daily except Friday 10 am to 4.30 pm; entry is Rs 3 (free on Monday). Photography is prohibited.

Gardens
Kota has several well maintained gardens - a sight for sore eyes in this industrial town. On the banks of the Chambal River, south of the fort, are the Chambal Gardens. The centrepiece is a murky pond stocked with crocodiles. Once common all along the river, by the middle of the 20th century crocodiles had been virtually exterminated through hunting. There are also some rare gharials (thin-snouted fish-eating crocodiles).
Beside the RTDC's Hotel Chambal are the Chhattar Bilas Gardens,, a curious collection of somewhat neglected but impressive royal cenotaphs.

Special Events
The celebration of Dussehra Mela to commemorate the victory of Rama over Ravana has a special significance in Kota, where festivities take the form of a large mela, or fair. See the Festivals of Rajasthan table at the start of the chapter for dates.

Places to Stay & Eat
Budget accommodation is limited and lacklustre. On the footpath outside the main post office, omelette and snack stalls set up in the early evening, and this can be a cheap way to eat.
Hotel Navrang (( 323294, fax 450044), near the main post office, in Nayapura, is one of the best places to stay. Don't be deceived by the front of the hotel which looks rather run-down. Singles/doubles are set around and inner courtyard and start at Rs 350.400 with bath (some rooms have more character than others). There's a veg restaurant

The Hotel Phul Plaza(( 329350, fax 322614), next door, offers a range of rooms, all with attached bath, from Rs 275/350. There's a good veg restaurant with most popular dishes under Rs 40.

RTDC's Hotel Chambal (( 326527), near Kishore Sagar, has bland rooms with bath from Rs 300/350. A veg thali costs Rs 55.

Chaman Hotel (( 323377), closer to the bus stand, on Station Rd, is one of the cheapest (and grubbiest) places on Kota. Dingy rooms cost Rs 80/120. Single female travellers may feel uncomfortable staying at this seedy flophouse

Hotel Shri Anand (( 441157), a fairyfloss pink building 100m along the street opposite the train station, is useful if you're catching an early-morning train. The rooms are tiny and could be cleaner, but are cheap at Rs 150/200 with bath. Veg meals are available.

Hotel Marudhar (( 326186, fax 324415) is between the fort and Kishore Sagar and also has a pink paint job. Small rooms with bath cost Rs 225/250. This hotel fronts a busy road, so ask for a quiet room.

Brijraj Bhawan Palace Hotel (( 450529, fax 450057), on an elevated site overlooking the Chambal River, is Kota;s most interesting hotel. Named after the current maharao of Kota, Brijraj Singh (who still lives here), this serene place has attractive rooms for Rs 1050/1450, or Rs 1800 for a capacious suite. Unlike most palaces, this one is more homey than grand. There's a cosy dining room; the set lunch or dinner is Rs 240 (residents only).

Umed Bhaawan Palace (( 325262, fax451110), in Civil Lines, is a more grandiose palace but frankly, the rooms and service are mediocre. Run by Welcomgroup, this grandiose building is set in cool gardens and has standard singles/doubles for Rs 1190/1790.

Sukhdham Kothi (( 320081, fax 327781) has comfortable rooms for Rs 950/1195. Set in nice grounds in Civil Lines, this building is over 100 years old. They can organise jeep safaris to places of interest around Kota.

Getting There & Away
There are buses to Ajmer (Rs 75, six hours), Chittorgarh (Rs 73, six hours), Jaipur (Rs 95 six hours), Udaipur (Rs 90, six hours), Jodhpur (Rs 175, 11 hours) and Bikaner (Rs 175, 12 hours). Buses leave for Bikaner every half hour (Rs 15, 50 minutes).
Kota is on the main broad-gauge Mumbai- Delhi line via Sawai Madhopur, the 108km journey takes just over two hours (Rs 76/112 in 2nd/1st class). To Agra Fort it's 343 km (Rs 105/361). There's a line linking Kota with Chittorgarh via Bundi; the daily train departs at 6.30 am, arriving in Bundi at 8 am (Rs 8) and in Chittorgarh at 11.30 am (rs 51). To Jaipur the trip takes about five hours (Rs 90/313 in 2nd /1st class). The 10 hour trip to Delhi costs Rs 160/546.

Getting Around
Mini buses link the train station and bus stand (Rs 2). An auto-rickshaw should cost Rs 15 for this journey. Cycle-Rickshaws are a cheaper option.

AROUND KOTA

Baroli
One of Rajasthan's oldest temple complexes is at Baroli, 56km south-west of Kota on the way to Rama Pratap Sagar. Many of the temples were vandalised by Muslim armies but much remains. Some of the sculptures from 9th century temples are displayed in the government museum in Kota.
There are hourly buses to Baroli from Kota (Rs 15, 1 1/2 hours).