CITY: JODHPUR

Telephone extension:  0291 
Population:  770,000

JODHPUR

Jodhpur is at the edge of the Thar Desert and is the largest city in Rajasthan after Jaipur. The city is dominated by a massive fort, topping a sheer rocky ridge right in the middle of the town. Jodhpur was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, a chief of the Rajput clan known as the Rathores. His descendents ruled not only Jodhpur, but also other Rajput princely states. The Rathore kingdom was once known as Marwar, the Land of Death.
The old city of Jodhpur is surrounded by a 10km-long wall, built about a century after the city was founded. From the fort, you can clearly see where the old city ends and the new begins. It's fascinating to wander around the jumble of winding streets in the old city, out of which eight gates lead. Part of the film Rudyard Kipling's Jungle Book, starring Sam Neil and John Cleese, was shot in Jodhpur and yes, it was from here that those baggy-tight horse-riding trousere, jodhpurs, took their name.
As one of the closest major Indian cities to the border with Pakistan, Jodhpur has a large defence contingent. Don't drive for cover when you hear booming jet fighter planes above - Jodhpur is not under siege; the air force is simply undergoing its routine training exercise.

Orientation
The Tourist Reception Centre, train stations and bus stand are all outside the old city, High Court Rd runs from the Raika Bagh train station, pasy the Umaid gardens, the RTDC's Hotel Ghoomar, and round beside the city wall towards the main station.

Information
Tourist Offices The Tourist Reception Centre (( 545083) is the RTDC's Hotel Ghoomar compound and is open Monday to Saturday 8 amto 7 pm.
There's an International Tourists Bueareu (( 439052) at the main train station which provides information, has comfortable arm chairs, a shower and a toilet.

Money The State Bank of India (High Court Rd branch) changes currency and travellers cheques. The Bank of Baroda, near the Hotel Arun, changes travellers cheques.

Meherangarh
Still run by the Maharaja of Jodhpur, Meherangarh, the Majestic Fort, is just that. Sprawled across a 125m-high hill, this is the most formidable fort in fort-studded Rajasthan. A winding road leads up to the entrance from the city, 5km below. The second gate is still scarred by cannon ball hits, indicating that this was a fort which earned its keep. The gates, of which there are seven, include the Jayapol, built by Maharaja Man Singh in 1806 following his victory over the armies of Jaipur and Bikaner, and the Fatehpol, or Victory Gate, erected by Maharaja Ajit Singh to commemorate his defeat of the Mughals.

The final gate is the Lohapol, or Iron Gate, beside which are 15 hand prints, the sati (self-immolation) marks of Maharaja Man Singh's widows who threw themselves upon his funeral pyre in 1843. They still attract devotional attention and are usually covered in red powder.
Inside the fort, there is a series of courtyards and palaces. The palace apartments have evocative names like the Sukh Mahal, or Pleasure Palace, and the Phool Mahal, or Flower Palace. They house a splendid collection of the trappings of Indian royalty, including an amazing collection of elephant howdahs (used when the maharajas rode their elephants in glittering procession through their capitals), miniature paintings from a variety of schools and the inevitable Rajput armoury, palanquins, furniture and costumes. In one room, there's even an exhibit of rocking cradles.
At the southern end of the fort, old canons look out rfom the ramparts over the sheer drop to the town beneath. You can clearly hear voices and city sounds swept up by the air currents from the ohuses far below. The views from these ramparts are nothing less than majical. From here, you can also see the many houses painted blue - see the Jodhpur's got the Blues boxed text. The Chamunda Devi Temple, dedicated to Durga, stands at this end of the fort.
The fort is open daily 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm. Entry costs Rs 10/50 for Indians/foreigners and there's a Rs 50/100 camera/video charge. Guides are available for around Rs 100. For weary travellers, an elevator will take you right up to the top of Sharma, at the fort (( 548992) who charges Rs 100 for a short consultation. He is available daily 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm.

Jaswant Thada
Theis white marble memorial to Mahataja Jaswant Singh II is a short distance from the fort, just off the fort road. The cenotaph, built in 1899, was followed by the royal crematorium and three other cenotaphs which stand nearby. There is some beautiful marble jali (lattice) work and fine views from the terrace in front of the cenotaph. Entry is Rs 5/10 for Indians/foreigners.

Clock Tower & Markets
The clock tower is a popular landmark in the old city. The viabrant Sardar Market is close to the tower, and narrow alleys lead from here to bazaars selling vegetables, spices (see Shoping), Indian sweets, textiles, silver and handicrafts. It's a great place to ramble around at leisure.

Umaid Bhawan Palace & Museum
Built of marble and pink sandstone, this immense palace is also known as the Chhittar Palace because of the local Chhittar sandstone used. Begun in 1929, it was designed by the president of the British Royal Institute of Architects for Maharaja Umaid Singh, and took 15 years to complete.
Provably the most surprising thing about this grandiose palace is that it was built so close to Independence, after which the maharajas, princely states and the grand extravagances common to this class would soon be a thing of the past. It is said that the palace was built a royal job-creation program to provide employment for thousands of local people during a time of severe drought.
Maharaja Umaid Singh died in 1947; his successor still lives in part of the building. The rest has been turned ino a hotel - and what a hotel! While it lacks the charm of Udaipur's palace hotels, it certainly makes up for it in spacious grandeur. There are even Hollywood hit movies screened each evening (for hotel guests) in the palace's home theatre, the Ali Akbar auditorium.
The palace (not including the museum) is closed to non-guests, unless you want to pay the fee of Rs 330, which is deducted from any food or drink you might puchase.
The very good museum is well worth a visit. On display is an amazing array of items belonging to themaharaja - weapons, fascinating antique clocks, dainty crockery, and hunting trophies. Entry is Rs 10/50 for Indians/foreigners.

Umaid Gardens & Sardar Government Museum
The pleasant Umaid gardens contain the Sardar Government, the library and the zoo (entry is Rs 1). The museum's exhibits include moth-eaten stuffed animals, old weapons and sculptures; unfortunately the pieces are not labelled. It's open daily except Friday from 10 am to 4.30 pm and entry costs Rs 3.

Organised Tours & Village Safaris
The Tourist Reception Centre conducts daily tours of Jodhpur from 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 6 pm (Rs 63 per person; entry fees are extra). These take in allthe local attractions including the Umaid Bhawan Palace and Meherangarh.
Jodhpur is known for its interesting 'village safaris' (Poly Travels - 0291 - 2545210). You can visit villages of the Bishnoi, a people whose belief in the sanctity of the environment and the need to protect trees and animals dates from the 15th century. The owner of the Madho Niwas (( 434486) - see places to stay- conducts informative safaris, which cost Rs 400 per person for a half day safari, including a meal (minimum of two people; advance bookings are essential). Sevveral other hotels can also arrange safaris, including Ajit Bhawan (( 437410) and Durag Niwas Guest House(( 639092). Alternatively, you can organise a safari through the Tourist Reception Centre (( 545083). Some travellers caution that if you book a safari through a travel agent it's important to choose carefully, as some are overpriced and poorly run.
For horse safaris, contact Heggie at Shalivahan Stud & stables (( 740842), Basni Baghela, Pali Rd (12 km south of Jodhpur). Ther's also some good accommodation here.

Places to Stay - Budget
Jodhpur operates the Paying Guest House Scheme with prices ranging from Rs 90 to Rs 800. Contact the Tourist Reception Centre for details.

Haveli Guest House (( 614615) is inside the walled city at Makarana Mohalla. It is excellent value for money and has plenty of character. Doubles with attached bath are Rs 200. The rooftop veg restaurant boasts stunning views of the fort, Jaswant singh Thada and the blue city. The family who run this place are friendly and helpful.
Madho Niwas (BhenswaraHouse) ((/fax 434486, Mew Airport Rd, Ratanada) is run by Dalvir Singh and is a homey place to stay with a quiet lawn area. Singles/doubles with private bath start at Rs 350/400. Meals are available; the Marwari-style barbecue chicken with a squeeze of leamon is dilecious. Good village safaris or a sojourn at Ravla Bheneshwara(see around Jodhpur section) can be arranged.

Durag Niwas Guest House (( 639092, 1 Old Public Prak), another family-run place, has descent doubles with bath from Rs 250 to Rs 500.

Durag Villasa Guest House (( 621300), next door, is good value, with doubles starting from Rs 150. Just around the corner you'll find the Megh Niwas Guest House (( 640530, 30 Umed Club Rd ) which has rooms from Rs 300/350.

Roopam Guest House (( 627374, 7 Jagannath Building, Mohanpura Overbridge) is run by retired Major TS Rathore. It has one room with common bath for Rs 200/250, and three rooms with bath for Rs 400/500.

Joshi's Blue House (( 612066, Novechokiya Rd, Brahm Puri, Chuna ki Chowki) is an atmospheric little place in the old city. Theis family-run-blue coloured house is said to be 500 years old and is pretty authentic (don't expect modern gadgets). Simple singles/doubles with common bath start at Rs 60/90 (free hot water). Go to the rooftop for a fine view.

RTDC's Hotel Ghoomar (( 548010, high Court Rd) has acceptable singles/doubles with bath from Rs 300/375 and dorm beds for Rs 50.

Govind Hotel (( 622758), opposite the main post office, is just five minutes' walk from the train station - great if you've got an early-morning train depature. Run by the helpful Jagdish Sardarangani, this is a very traveller friendly place. The rooms are basic but cheap. dorm beds go for Rs 50, and singles with common bath for Rs 60, and singles/doubles with attached bath for Rs 150/175. The rooftop restaurant has wonderful views of the palace and fort.

Hotel Arvind (( 547159, fax 547423, 135 Nai Sarak) offers OK rooms for a low Rs 90/150 with common bath, or Rs 165/200 with bath (Indian style toilet).

Shanti Bahwan Lodge ( 637001), in the street opposite the train station, has rooms with common bath for Rs 70/100, and doubles with attached bath from Rs 150 to Rs 600. Some of the cheaper rooms are Spartan and the bathrooms could be cleaner.

Hotel Akshey (( 437327), opposite the Raika Bagh train station, has dorm beds for Rs 50 and rooms with bath fromRs 175/225. The cleanliness and service is variable.
Retiring Rooms at the main train station cost Rs 100 for a double with bath; Rs 300 with air-con.

Places to Stay - Mid Range

Devi Bhawan ((/fax 434215, 1 Ratanada Area) is highly recommended and great value for money. Run by a charming couple, you'll have no hassles here whatsoever. This green oasis has fresh rooms for Rs 700/750 a single/double, and cottages for Rs 850. There's a good restaurant and the garden would have to be one of best in Jodhpur.

Ratan Vilas ((/fax 614418, Loco Shed Rd, Ratanada) is another well-kept family villa set in a nice garden. Comfortable rooms cost Rs 600 and meals are available.

Newtons Manor ( 430686, fax 610603, 86 Jawahar Colony, Ratanada) also has a beautiful homey atmosphere. There are just five rooms ranging from Rs 895 to Rs 110. Scrumptious home-cooked meals are also available here.

Hotel Adarsh Niwas (( 627338, fax 627314) is convenient if you want to be close to the main train station. Dull but comfortable rooms begin at Rs 650/850.

Hotel City Place (( 431933, fax 639033, 33 Nai Sarak) has singles/doubles from Rs 790/990 and the Gossip veg restaurant.

There are some more upmarket and expensive hotels in the mid range category that are recommended
Ajit Bhawan (( 437410, fax 637774, Airport Rd) has long been popular with travellers. It has a series of modern stone cottages arranged around a relaxing garden for Rs 1550/1800. There's a restaurant, sensational swimming pool (non guest Rs 250) and village safaris are available. The setting is delightful, but the staff can be rather indifferent.

Hotel Karni Bhawan (( 432220, fax 433495) is a modern place with traditional touches on Palace Rd. Set in well-manicured gardens and with a pool, comfortable singles/doubles start at Rs 1175/1425 (the rooms in the new building ar best). The restaurant is excellent and you can eat indoors or under the stars. They have a country retreat at Sodawas, 90km south of Jodhpur.

Inn Season ((/fax 616400), opposite the PWD office, is ahomey place with wellkept rooms from Rs 1200. Check out the funky old German record player with an equally funky collection of records, including Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald.

Places to Stay - Top End

Umaid Bhawan Palace (( 433316, fax 635373) is the place to stay if you have a passion for pure luxury. This very elegant palace has an indoor swimming pool, tennis court, billiard room, lush lawns and several restaurants (See Places to Eat). Standard rooms cost US$350 to phenonomenal US$990. If you can possibly afford, opt for a suit, as the cheaper rooms are suitably comfortable, but hardly palatial.
The Ratanada Polo Palace (( 431910, fax 433118, Residency Rd) is in its own spacious grounds, but is a little lacking in character. It has a pool, restaurant and rooms for Rs 1800/2400.
Another top-end hotel, under construction at the time of writing, is the Taj Hari MahalPalace (( 022-2025515, fax 2846683 in Mumbai).

Places to Eat
While you're in Jodhpur, try a glass of makhania lassi, a filling saffron-flovoured variety of theat most refreshing of drinks.

Mishrilal Hotel, at the clock tower, is nothing fancy to look at, but whips up the best lassis in town. A delicious glass of creamy special makhania lassi is Rs 10.

Agra Sweets, opposite Sojati Gate, also sells good lassis (Rs 10), as well as tasty Jodhpur dessert specialities such as mawa ladii(Rs 5) and the baklava-like mawa kachori(Rs 9).

Kalinga Restaurant at the Hotel Adarsh Niwas, near the train station, is a pleasant place to eat. It has tasty veg and nonveg Indian, Chinese and continental food; chicken curry is Rs 65. it's open 7 am to 10.30 pm daily. Mid Town, nearby, is a bit overpriced but not bad. Most mains cost between Rs 40 and Rs 65 and there are some Rajasthani specialities such as chakki-ka-sagh (Rs55) and Rajasthani thalis (Rs 60).

Kasserole, not far from the Hotel arni Bhawan, is the place to go for a Chinese chow down. The Buddhist chef whips up dishes like shreaded limb in hot garlic sauce (Rs 50) and sweet and sour veggies (Rs 30). This unpretentious restaurant is on the top floor of a house and is only open for dinner.

On the Rocks at the Ajit Bhawan hotel is very opular, especially with locals. It serves tasty Indian cusine outdoors; veg biryani is Rs 50. The service can be sluggish, especially when it's busy. In the same compiound, there's a bar and an excellent bakery.

Umaid Bhawan Palace has four restautrants, including the vary grand Marwar Hall (however, the buffet here is lacklustre). Overlooking the back lawn is The Pillars, a breezy informal eatry recommended for a light bite; the Risala, which is more upmarket; and Kebab Konner, an open-air restaurant which specialises in moderately barbecue Indian food (dinneer only). Or, you may just like to have a drop of amber fluid at the Trophy Bar.

The refreshment room on the 1st floor of the main train station is surprisingly good. There's a veg and non veg food to munch on while waiting for you train; a veg/nonveg thali is just Rs 16/22.

Shopping
The usual Rajasthani handicrafts are available heree, but Jodhpur particularly specialises in antiques. The greatest number of antique shops is along the road connecting the Ajit Bhawan with the Umaid Bhawan Palace. These shops are well known to western antique dealers who come here with wallets stuffed with plastic cards. As a result, you'll be hard pressed to find any bargains. Many places also sell cheaper replicas based on original antique architectural fixtures is contributing to the descreation of India's cultural heritage and is not condoned by Lonely Planet.
For excellent Indian spices, check out Mohanlal Verhomal ((/fax 615846), shop 209B at the sabzi (vegetable ) market, very close to the clock tower. There is a tantalizing array of spices including a 'winter tonic' to enhance sexual stamina and will happiely answer any questions you may have about them.

Getting There & Away
Air Indian Airlines (( 636757) is south of the centre on Airport Rs (open Daily 10am to 1.15 pm and 2 to 4.30 pm). It operates flights to Delhi (US$95), Udaipur (US$55), Jaisalmer(US$60), Jaipur(US$70) and Mumbai (US$135).
Bus There are buses to various places such as Udaipur (Rs 70, eight hours), Jaipur (Rs 80, seven hours), Ajmer (Rs 70, four hours), Jaisalmer (Rs 70, five hours) and Delhi (Rs 160, 12 1/2 hours).
Train There are rail connections to Jaisalmer, Jaipur, Kota, Bikaner, Ahmedabad and Delhi. The booking offivce is on Station RD, between the train station and Sojati Gate. There's a tourist quota and the office is open Monday to Saturday 8 am to 8 pm (to 1.45 pm Sunday).

Getting Around
To/From the Airport The airport is only 5km from the city centre. It costs about Rs 50/110 in an auto-rickshaw/taxi.

Taxi & Auto-Rackshaw There's a taxi stand near the main train station. Most auto-rickshaw journeys in town should cost no more than Rs 25.

Bicycle You can hire a bike from several places near the Kalinga Restaurant, not far from the main post office. The usual charge is about Rs 2/15 per hour/day.

AROUND JODHPUR

Jhalamand
Hotel Jhalamand Garh (( 0291-740418), fax 741125|), 10 km south of Jodhpur, is a tranquil 18th century royal abode with singles/doubles from Rs 1000/1100. It's ideal if you want to stay a stone's throw away from the hustle and bustle of Jodhpur.

Maha Mandir & Balsamand Lake
About 4km north-east of the city is the Maha Mandir (Great Temple), It's built around a 100 pillared Shiva Temple but is nothing to write home about. Five kilometres farther north is the picturesque Balsamand Lake.
Balsamand Palace (( 0291-433316, fax 635373 in Jodhpur) is a comfortable and serene hotel. Singles/doubles are US$60/75, and suites range from US$125 to US$325. Around sunset, numerous bats swoop into the lake for a drink - creepy, yet fascinating.

Mandore
Situated 9km north of Jodhpur, Mandore was the capital of Marwar prior to the foundation of Jodhpur. Today, its extensive gareden with high rock terraces make it a popular local attraction. The gardens also contain the cenotaphs of Jodhpur rulers, including the soaring memorial to Maharaja Dhiraj Ajit Singh.
The Hall of Heroes contains 15 figures carved out of a rock wall. The brightly painted figures represent Hindu deities, and local heroes on horseback. The Shrine of 33 Crore (330 million) Gods is painted with figures of deities and sprits.
Mandore Guest House ( 0291-2545620, fax 2546959) has delightful accommodation in a leafy garden. It's great value with singles/doubles with bath costing Rs 500/1000.

Sardar Samand Lake
The route to thes wildlife centre, 66km south-east of Jodhpur, passes through a number of colourful little villages. Some of the wildlife to be seen at the lake includes black buck, chinkara and a variety of birdlife.
Sardar Samand Palace (( 0291-433316, fax 635373 in Jodhpur), formerly the maharaja of Jodhpur's summer palace, has now been converted into a hotel, with rooms for US$60/75. There's a restaurant and a stylish lakeside swimming pool. This place is a worl away from the clamour of Jodhpur.

Bhenswara
Ravla Bhenswara((02978-22080. 0r (/fax 0291-434486 in Jodhpur) is a simple rural manor that is perfect if you want some respite from the rigours of travelling in India. Located 130km south of Jodhpur, it is run by a friendly young couple, Shiv Pratap Singh and UmaKumari, who give this place a homey appeal. The quaint rooms start at Rs 800/950 a single/double. There's a pool, village safaris are available and they can arrange a visit to the nearby Jalor Fort. Don't miss the evening parakeet invasion at nearby Madho Bagh.

Rohet
Rohet Garh (( 02936-68231) is a heritage hotel in this small village, 40km south of Jodhpur, where Bruce Chatwin wrote The Songlines and William Dalrymple began City of Djinns. Good rooms start at Rs 1100/1700, meals are available and there's a fantastic swimming pool. They can also organise village safaris.

Luni
Fort Chanwa((/fax 0291-432460 in Jodhpur), not too far from Rohet, offers tasteful accommadation in a red sandstone fort. Rooms cost Rs 1150/1800. ther's a pool, restaurant and some interesting walks in the area. Village safaris are available.

Osiyan
The ancient Thar Desert townof Osiyan, 65km north of Jodhpur, was a great trading centre between th 8th and 12th centuries whien it was dominated by the Jains. The wealth of Osyan's medieval inhabitants allowed them to build lavish and exquisitely sculptured temples, most of which have whithsyood the ravages of time. The sculptures detail on the Osyan temples rivals that of the Hosyala temples of Karnataka and the Sun Temple of Konark in Orissa.
The Camel Camp ((/fax 0291-437023 in Jodhpur) offers a range of tented accommodation in a magical location - atop a secluded sand dune overlooking Osiyan. Double occupancy tents with common bath are Rs 300. More luxurious tents with attached bath (and shower) are also available. There's a breezy bar with views of the temples, and camel safaris can be arranged. The owner, Reggie, is heree most of the time. Advance bookings are essential. Contact The Safari Club, High Court Colony, Jodhpur.
For cheaper accommodation, contact Bhanu Prakash Sharma, a Brahmin priest with a very basic guesthouse (( 02922-74232) for Rs 200 per room (maximum five people).
There are regular buses from Jodhpur to Osiyan (Rs 20, 1 1/2 hours).

Khimsar
Khimsar Fort (( 01585-62345, fax 62228), 75km north of Jodhpur, dates from 1523, Pleasant rooms go for US$85/135 and there is also a pool, plus a restaurant and nice gardens.

Nagaur
Nagaur, 135km north-east of Jodhpur, has the historic Ahhichatragarh, anancient fort which is currently being restored (entry costs Rs 5/15 for Indians/foreigners, plus Rs 25/50 for a camera /video). Nagaur also sports a smaller version of Pushkar's Camel Fair; the Nagaur Cattle Fair in January/February attracts thousands of rural people from far and wide.
Royal Tents are available fro US$175/225 a single/double at fair time. These luxurious tents must be booked in advance through the Umaid Bhawan Palace inJodhpur ((0291-433316, fax 635373).
RTDC's Kurjan Nagaur(no phone) has good rooms for Rs 250/300 with bath (US$40/53 during the fair). For more details contact the General Manager, Central Reservations (( 0141-202586, fax 201045), RTDC's Hotel Swagatam Campus, Near Railway Station, Jaipur. Other hotels in Nagaur include the Hotel Bhaskar (( 01582-22100), with rooms from Rs 100/250, and the slightly more expensive Hotel Mahaveer International (( 01582-43158).

Khejarla
Fort Khejarla(( 02930-58311), 85km east of Jodhpur en route to Ajmer, is not as swanky as most other fort hotels, but it has a crtain rustic charm. Singles/doubles at this 400-year old fort are Rs 850/950 (bucket hot water).
Village safaris can be arranged, as well as a visit to an old step-well (ask Dalip Singh about the ghost).

Jodhpur's Got the Blues
Hats off to the people of Rajasthan for converting their stark landscape into a mosaic of vivid colours. Apart from the Rajasthanis themselves, adorned in wildly colourful garments, a number of Rajasthani's major towns have adopted colourful identities - there's the pink city of Jaipur, the golden city of Jaisalmer and the blue city of Jodhpur.
Jodhpur is affectionately referred to as the 'blue city' because of the indigo coloured houses in the old town. These can best be seen from the ramparts of the mighty Meherangarh, which looms high above the buzzing city.
Traditionally, blue signified the home of a Brahmin, but these days, non-Brahmins have also taken on the practice. Apart from looking fresh and lively, it is believed that the colour works as an effective mosquito repellent.