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CITY: JAISALMER

Telephone extension: 02992
Population: 46500

JAISALMER

Nothing else in India is remotely similar to Jaisalmer. This captivating sandy outpost has been dubbed the Golden City because of the honey colour imparted to its stone ramparts by the setting sun. its desert fort, which resembles a gigantic sandcastle, is straight out of the Thousand and One Nights.
Centuries ago, Jaisalmer's strategic position on the camel train toutes between India and Central Asia brought it great wealth. The merchant and townspeople built magnificiant houses and mansions, all exquisitely carved from wood and golden sdandstone. These havelis can be found elsewhere in Rajasthan, but nowhere are they quite as exqisite as in Jaisalmer. Even the humblest shops and houses display something of the Rajput love of the decorative arts.
The rise of shipping trade and the port of Mumbai (Bombay) saw the decline of Jaisalmer. At Independence, Partrition and the cutting of the trade routes through to Pakistan seemingly sealed the city's fate, and water shortages could have been pronounced the death sentence. However, in 1965 and 1971 India-Pakistan wars revealed Jaisalmer's strategic importance, and the Indira Gandhi Canal, to the north, is beginning to restore life to the desert.
Today, tourism rivals the military base as the pillar of the city's economy. The presence of the Border Security Force hardly impinges at all on the life of the old city and only the occational sound of warplanes ever disturbs the tranquillity of this desert gem.
It hasn't always been so, as forts have rarely been constructed for aesthetic reasons and medieval desert chieftains weren't known for their pacific temperaments. Chivalric rivalry and ferocity between various Rajput clans were the order of the day, and the Bhatti Rajputs of Jaisalmer were regarded as a formidable force throughout the region. While Jaisalmer largely escaped direct conquest by the Muslim rulers of Delhi, it did experience its share of sieges and sackings with the inevitable jauhar (collective sacrifice) being declared in the face of certain defeat. There is perhaps no other city in which you can more easily conjure up the sprit of those times.
However, there is a down side to Jaisalmer becoming one of Rajasthan's most popular tourist destinations. The number of hotels in the fort has significantly increased over the years and a major concern is that the poor plumbibg and open drains have saturated the foundations, causing subsidence and collapse in buildings. The old open drains were created to take a limited amount of water and waste, and cannot cope up with the pressure being placed upon them today.

For more information on the initiatives been taken to preserve Jaisalmer conservation Initiative, 71 Lodi Estate, New Delhi 110 003 (( 011-4631818, fax 461 1290) or the British-reegistered charity Jaisalmer in Jeopardy ((/fax 0171-4608592, email jaisalmer@lineone.net) 20E Redcliffe Gardens, London SW10 9EX.

Orientation
Jaisalmer is a great place to simply wander. The streets within the old city walls are a tangled maze, but the city is small enough for this not to matter. You simply head off in what seems like the right direction and you'll get somewhere eventually.
The old city was once completely surrounded by an extencive wall, much of which has sadly been ripped away in recent times for building material. Some of it remains, however, including the city gates and, inside them, the massive fort which rises above the city and is the essence of Jaisalmer. The fort itself is a warren of narrow, paved streets complete with Jain temples and the old palace of the former ruler.
The main market area is directly below the hill, while the banmks, the new palace and several other shops and offices are near the Amar Sagar Gate to the West.

Information
Tourist Offices The Tourist Reception Centre (( 52406) is on Gadi Sagar Rd, 2km south-east of the First fort Gate. It's open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5 pm. There's also a small tourist counter at the train station.
Money the Bank of Baroda at Gandhi Chowk changes travellers cheques and issues cash advances on Visa and MasterCard. The State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur, opposite the Hotel Neeraj, changes travellers cheques and major currencies.

Jaisalmer Fort
Jaisalmer Fort is the most alive of any museum, fort or palace that you're likely tovisit in India. There are homes and hotels hidden in the laneways, and shops and stalls swaddled in the kaleidoscopic mirrors and embroideries of brilliant Rajasthani cloth. And yet it's so quite that even the ubiquitous challenge issued by the wandering jewellery sellers - 'yes madam, sir, you buy' - can't dispel the magic air of peace and protection afforded by the massive and beautiful enclosure.
Built in 1156 by the Rajput ruler Jaisala, and reinforced by subsequent rulers, the fort crowns the 80m-high Trikuta Hill. About a quarter of the old city's population resides within the fort walls, which have 99 bastions around their circumferance.
The fort is entered through a forbidding series of massive gates leading to a large courtyard. The former maharaja's seven storey palace fronts onto this. The square was formerly used to review troops, hear petitions and present extravagant entertainment for important visitors. Part of the palace is open to the public, but there's little to see inside. It's open daily 8 am to 5 pm; entry is Rs 10, plus Rs 20/50 for a camera/video.

Jain Temples
Within the fort walls are a group of beautifully carved Jain temples built between the 12th and 15th centuries. They're dedicated to Rikabdev and Sambhavant.
The temples are open daily 7 am to noon. Entry is free but it costs Rs 40 for a camera, Rs 70 for a video.

Havelis
The impressive mansions built by the wealthy merchants of Jaisalmer are known as havelis, and several of these fine sand stone buildings are still in good condition.

Patwon ki Haveli
The most eleborate and magnificent of all the Jaisalmer havelis stands in a narrow lane. It's divided into six apartments, two owned by the Archeological Survey of India, two by families who operate craftshops here, and two private homes. There are remnants of paintings on some of the inside walls as well as some mirror work. To enter costs Rs 2.

Salim Singh ki Haveli
This haveli was built about 300 years ago and part of it is still ccupied. Salim Singh was the prime minister when Jaisalmer was the capital of a princely state, and his mansion has a beautifully arched roof with superb carved brackets in the form of peacocks. The mansion is just below the hill and, it is said, once had two additional wooden storeys in attempt to make it as high as the maharajas palace, but the maharaja had the upper storeys torn down! There's a Rs 15 entry charge at this haveli and it's open daily between 8 am and 6 pm.

Nathmal ki Haveli
This late 19th century haveli was also a prime miinister's house. The left and right wings of the building were carved by brothers and are very similar, but not identical. Yellow sandstone elephants guard the building, and even the front door is a work of art.

Gadi Sagar
This tank, south of the city walls, was once the water supply of the city and there are many small temples and shrines around it. A wide variety of waterfowl flock here in winter.
The attractive gateway which arches across the road built by a famous prostitute. When she offered to pay to have this gateway constructed, the maharaja refused permission on the grounds that he would have to pass under it to go down to the tank, and he felt that this would be beneath his dignity. While he was away, she built the gate anyway, adding a Krishna temple on top so the king could not tear it down.

Museums
Next to the Tourist Reception Centre is the Desert Culture Centre & Museum, which has textiles, old coins, fossils and traditional Rajasthani instruments among other things. Its aim is to preserve Rajasthan's cultural heritage and conduct research on local history. It's open 9 am to 8 pm daily. Entry costs Rs 5/10 for Indians/ foreigners, which includes entry to the Jaisalmer Folklore Museum- on the road down to the lake (open 8 am to 7 pm daily) The hill near this museum is a fabulous place tosoak in this sunset.
Close to the RTDC's Hotel Moomal is the small government museum, which has a limited but well-captioned collection of fossils, some which date back to the Jurassic era (160 to 180 million years ago!). other artefacts include a stuffed great Indian bustard, the state bird of Rajasthan, which thrives in the Thar Desert but is declining in numbers elsewhere. The museum is open daily except Friday 10 am to 4.30 pm. Entry costs Rs 3 (Rs 1 for students), free for everyone on Monday. Photography is not permitted.

Organised Tours
Few travellers visit Jaisalmer without taking a camel safari into the desert. For details, see the Camel Safaris Arouuund Jaisalmer Boxed textlater in this section.
The Tourist Reception Centre offers a morning and evening city sightseeing tour (Rs 60 perperson), and a sunset tour to the Sam sand dunes (Rs 100 per person). On request, tours to Sam can stop at Kanoi, 5km before the dunes, from where it's possible to get a camel to the dunes in time for sunset (about Rs 50).
The Hotel Fort View (see Place toStay) has a travel counter (( 50740; ask for Om Vyas) which operates very reasonably priced excursions. These include a three hour city sightseeing trip (Rs 30 per person), and a full-day trip which also incorporates attractions in the environs of Jaisalmer (Rs 200 per person including lunch). Both these tours require a minimum of four people. They can also arrange camel safaris.

Special Events
In January/February, the (rather contrived) Jaisalmer Desert Festival has camel races, dances, folk music, desert ballads and puppeteers. See the Festivals of Rajasthan table at the start of this chapter for exact dates.

Places to Stay
Jauisalmer is a major tourist trap, and many hotels, both cheap and not so cheap, have sprung up to meet the demand. The touting situation has reached such proportions that the district mahistrate has set up mobile Tourist Protection Force to keep the touts at a distance. Their aims are laudable - but they can only do so much. If you do encounter pressure from touts, especially sround the bus station, keep in mind that some of them are less than honest about the service they provide - don't believe anyone who offers to take you 'anywhere youlike' for a few rupees, and take with a grain of salt claims that the hotel you want to stay in is 'full', 'closed', 'no good anymore' or has suffered some other inglorious fate. They'll only lead you to a succession of hotels, where of course they get commission if you stay.
Another word of advice - check that you have in fact been taken to the hotel you asked for, as some cunning rickshaw drivers will hurry you into a different hotel where they get their commission and disappear in a flash. To overcome this problem, many of the popular budget hotels send their own vehicles to meet the bus or train.
Unfortunately, quite a few of the cheap places are really into the high-pressure selling of camel safaris. Some places can get quite ugly if you book a safari through someone else. Not only will they refuse to hold your baggage, but ibn many cases they'll actually evict you from the hotel! Before you check in, stress that you will only stay if you don't have to do a safari - if they hassle you, simply move on to another hotel.
As is so often the case in Rajasthani towns, if there's a festival on, prices skyrocket an accommodation of any kind can be hard to get. Many places offer a low season discounts between April an August - but you'd be crazy to come here during this time, as Jaisalmer becomes hellishly hot.

Places to Stay - Budget
Town Area There's a good choice of budget hotels along the two streets that run parallel to each other north of the Trio restaurant. Many have bucket hot water and Indian-style toilets.
Hotel Swastika (( 52483) is a popular hang-out with travellers and deservedly so. It's friendly and there are great views from the rooftop. Singles/doubles with common bath go for Rs 100/150 and rooms with bath are from Rs 150/220. A Dorm bed is Rs 60. It even throws in a free cup of tea in the morning.

Natural Guesrt House (no phone) has three rooms with common bath for a low Rs 50.80, and one double with bath Rs 100.

Hotel Anurag (( 50276) is good if you're strapped for cash, offering singles/doubles with common bath for mere Rs 30/40, or Rs 40/50 with attached bath (including a free cup of tea).

Hotel Pleasure (( 52323) has good rooms with common bath for Rs 60/80, and rooms with bath for Rs 100/120.

Hotel Renuka (( 52757), nearby, is a pleasant family-run place with fabulous rooftop views. Rooms with common bath range from Rs 40 to Rs 100 (Rs 100 to Rs 180 with attached bath). The best room with a balcony costs Rs 200. Meals are available.

Hotel Fort View (( 52214) is another popular chepie and is close to the entrance to the fort, although some of the rooms are tiny. Singles/doubles with attached bath start at Rs 66/88. A large room with a view of the fort is Rs 350. There's a restaurant on the top floor.

Hootel Shree Giriraj Palace (( 52268), also in this area, is cheap and cheerful, with rooms from Rs 50/80 with common bath for Rs 80/120 with attached bath. There's a rooftop restaurant

Hotel Rajdhani (( 52746), not far from the Patwon ki Haveli, has small, Spartan but clean rooms with common bath for Rs 60/100 (Rs 150/200 with attached bath). The rooftop restaurant has fine fort views.

Hotel Samrat (( 51498), out in the southern section of the walled city, just off Gadi Sagar Rd, is a possibility if you're going through a cash crunch. A dorm bed is a mere Rs 10 and clean singles/doubles start at Rs 30/40 with common bath, or Rs 40/50 with attached bath. Not far away is another very good budget choice, the Hotel Golden City (( 51664).
Retiring rooms at the train station are Rs 100 for doubles with bath. There are also a cluster of thatched huts for the same price. No meals are available.

Fort The Hotel Simla(( 53061) is teriffic choice and you'll have no troubles here whatsoever with common bath are Ra 60/100 and Rs 150/200. With attached bath they're alcove and balcony is Rs 300/450. There's also a small tent on the roof (Rs 50 a double), or you can sleep on the roof (Rs 25), which includes mattresses and blankets. You're welcomed with a free cup of tea.

Deepak Rest House ((52665, fax 52070) is actually part of the fort wall and offers stunning views from its rooftop. However, travellers have mixed reports about the cleanliness and service here. Basic rooms are Rs 40/60 with common bath. Rooms with bath start at Rs 60/80. Room no9 (Rs 300/350) is the best. There's also a rather tatty dorm for Rs 20(attached bath).

Hotel Chandra Niwas (no phone) is a relaxing place to stay with just four well maintained rooms from Rs 70 (common bath) to Rs 200 (attached bath).

Hotel Laxmi Niwas ((52758) has tiny rooms for Rs 50/100 with common bath (the common shower is a bit primitive). It also has a new annexe on the other side of the fort with better rooms from Rs 200/250.

Hotel Paradise ((52674) is on the far side of the main square from the palace as you come through the last gate into the fort. This popular place is a kind of haveli, with 23 rooms arranged around a leafy ocurtyard and sensational views from the roof. Singles/doubles with common bath are Rs 60/150, or , or from Rs 350 to Rs 650 with attached bath. You can sleep on the roof for Rs 30, which includes a blanket and mattress.

Hotel Castle Paying Guest house (( 52988) has a few shabby but OK double rooms from Rs 100 to Rs 250.

Hotel Temple View (( 52832) has small but acceptable rooms for Rs 60/100 with common bath, and Rs 250 with bath. The owner,Sunny, is very helpful.
Places to Stay - Mid Range
Town Area the Hotel Jaisal Palace (( 52717, fax 50257), not far from the Amar Sagar Gate, is a well-maintained place. All rooms have attached hot bath and are Rs 500/600/900 a ingle/double/triple (the best rooms are Nos 107,108 and 109). The rooftop veg restaurant boasts of fine views - there's a chair swing on the very top.
Hotel NachanaHaveli (( 52110, fax 52778, Gahndhi Chowk) is charming old haveli with rooms around a courtyard. Singles/doubles range from Rs 650/750 to Rs 950/1150. Meals are available with advance notice.

RTDC's Hotel Moomal (( 52392) has a more impressive exterior than interior. Situated out of the walled city, it has thatched huts for Rs 750, or conventional rooms from Rs 450/500. A dorm bed is Rs 50. There's a restaurant and a beer shop.

Hotel Neeraj (( 52442, fax 52545) is even farther away from the centre, and fronts a busy road. Overpriced singles/doubles start at Rs 700/800.

Mandir palace hotel (( 52788, fax 51158) has royal associations but is overpriced for what it offers. Rooms begin at Rs 850/1350.

Shree Narayan Vilas (( 52283) is inside the town walls, to the north of the fort. Somewhat rundown rooms start from Rs 525/625.

Fort The Hotel Suraj (( 51623, near the Jain temples, is an interesting old haveli with rooms ranging from Rs 300/350 to Rs 550/650, all with private bath. Veg meals are available; lunch/dinner costs Rs 50/75. Intheir buildings opposite are some slightly cheaper rooms.

Hotel Shreenath Palace (( 52907) is another atmospheric old haveli. Rooms (all doubles) cost Rs 350 with common bath (free bucket hot water). Room No 4 is lovely.

Hotel Jaisal Castle(( 52362, fax 52101) is a restored haveli in the south-west corner of the fort. Its biggist attraction is its position high on the rampartd looking out over the desert. The cheapest rooms are Rs 500/650. The staff can be a bit indifferent here.

Killa Bhawan Resort (( 51204) is more expensive, and offers comfortable but smallish doubles with common bath from Rs 1000 to Rs 1250.
Places to Stay - Top End
Rang Mahal (( 50907, fax 51305), 2.5km west of the fort, is a dramatic building with marvellous rooms from Rs 1500/1850. The deluxe suites (Rs 3800) are dreamy. At the time of writing a pool was being planned.

Gorbandh Palace hotel (( 51511, fax 52749), nearby, is another upmarket modern hotel with traditional design elements. Built of local sandstone, the friezes around the hotel were sculptured by local artisans. Standard rooms in a fairly nondescript block behind the main building cost Rs 1195/2395 and there's a coffee shop, bar,restaurant, travel desk and superb pool. The Hotel Heritage Inn (( 52769 , fax51638), next door, has rooms for Rs 1190/1950.

Jawahar Niwas Palace (( 52208, fax 52611), 1km west of the fort, is a stunning palace, standing in its own sandy grounds. At the time of writing it was undergoing vigerous renovations, but it should be ready by now and is worth checking out. Rates are expected to be Rs 2495/2995.

Narayan Niwas Palace (( 52408, fax 52101) is north of the fort. The rooms aren't very exiting, but are comfortable enough at Rs 1175/1800, or Rs 2050 for a suite. There's a gloomy indoor swimming pool, and great views of the fort from the rooftop.

Hootel Himmatgarh (( 52002, fax 52005),
the Hotel rawal-Kot ((51874, fax 50444)
the Hotel Dhola Maru (( 52863, fax 53124).
Places to Eat
Like all travellers' centre, Jaisalmer's budget restaurants attract their own cliques of long-time stayers. Hygiene is variable though, and prices steadiely rise in line with tourist numbers.

Town Area Not far from the First Fort Gate,

Monica Restaurant is opular with travellers and has an extensive menu offering Indian, continental and Chinese food. There's also a selection of Rajasthani cuisine - to sample a variety of dishes try the filling Rajasthani thali (Rs 70).

Natraj Restaurant, not far away, has a fine view of the upper part of the Salim Sing ki Haveli next door. The food is good and the prices are fairly reasonable; chicken Mughalai is rs 50 and fried ice cream is Rs 30. Nearby is the Seema Restaurant, which offers veg and non veg fare.
Mid Town�also near the fort gate, has packed tables and average food. A Rajasthani special thali costs Rs40.

Trio, near the Amar Sagar Gate, is one of Jaisalmer's longest running restaurants. Although pricier than its neighbours, the food is great and well presented. The saagwala (Rs 80) is tasty. The nearby Skyroom Restaurant has a more limited menu.

Kalpana Restaurant, is in the same area, is nothing special, but is a good place to watch the world go by while sipping on a bannan lassi (Rs 14).

Top Deck, nearby, is popular and offers reasonably priced Indian, continental and Chinese Cusine. Their fruit lassi (Rs 15) is refreshing.

Bhang Shop, outside the First Fort Gate, not far from Sahara Travels is a government-authorised bhang shop! Lassis are Rs 25 per glass and bhang cookies can be baked with advance notice. Bhang does not agree with everyone 0 see the Warning boxed text at the beginning of this chapter.

Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets (Sardar Bazaar, Bhatia Market), opposite the 8th July Restaurant's outside the fort, has been churning out sweet treats for the past 10 generations. It is renownwed in Jaisalmer and beyond for its speciality sweets, such as ghotua and pacnchdhari ladoos (Rs 4.50 each). This simple little place is worth visiting just to watch the sweetmakers ply their trade.

The Rawal whips up interesting Indian dishes such as a tandoori thali (Rs 150), as well as continental and Chinese fare. Their mixed fruit lassi (Rs 22) is positively divine. There are fine fort views. Nearby is the Restaurant Golden Fort, which also has panoramic views, but a more limited menu.

Fort The 8th July Restaurant, above the main square, is certainly conveniently located, but the food and service could be better. The menu is purely vegetarian and largely caters to western tastes. Vegemite deprived Aussies can get the black wonder spread here (Rs 30 for three slices of toast). There's another branch outside the fort but it's not as atmospheric.
Refreshing Point Rooftop Restaurant, nearby, is so popular that you may have to wait for a table. There's a phenomenal menu offering Indian, continental, Italian, Mexican, Tibetan, Chinese and even Greek cuisine. Moussaka is Rs 40 and sizzlers are Rs 65. They serve hearty breakfasts as well. There's also a small German bakery selling goodies such as choco-banana croissants (Rs 20).
Vyas Meal Service, near the Jain temples in the fort, is an excellent place to get homecooked veg food. Their thalis are popular and they also do good masala tea.

Shopping
Jaisalmer is renowned for embroidery, Rajasthani mirrorwork, rugs, blankets, old stonework and antiques. Tie-dye and other fabrics are made at the Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan (seemagram), not too far from the fort. One traveller warns that you should watch out for silver items brought in Jaisalmer as the metal may be adultrated with bronze.
In the fort, on the laneway leading up to the Jain temples, is a fascinating shop called the Light of the East. It sells crystals and rare mineral speciments. Ask to have a look at the huge apophyllite piece which is kept in a closed box - don't set your heart on it - it's not for sale.

Getting There & Away
Air Indian Airlines operates flights between Jaisalmer and jodhpur (US$60) Jaipur (US$110), Mumbai (US$175) and Delhi (US$140). The Indian Airlines office (( 51912) is in the grounds of the RTDC's hotel Moomal and is open daily 9.30 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5.30 pm.

Bus you'll find the main Roadways bus stand (( 51541) some distance from the centre of the town, near the train station. Fortunately, all buses start from a bus depot just behind the Hotel Neeraj, which is more conveniently located.
To Jodhpur there are frequent daily deluxe buses (Rs 60, 5 1/2 hours). There is one daily deluxe bus direct to Jaipur (Rs 130, 13 hours) and several daily direct buses to Bikaner (Rs 100, 7 hours).
It's possible to book luxury buses through most of the travel agencies. Quoted rates were: Udaipur, Rs 150; Jaipur, Rs 150; Delhi, Rs 250; Ajmer, Rs 140; Bikaner, Rs 110; and Jodhpur, Rs 75. the Trip to Udaipur requires a change of bus at Jodhpur. Others may also require a change en route.
Train The reservations office at the station is open 8 am to 8 pm daily.
Thi IJPJ leaves Jaisalmer daily at 7.15 am, arriving in Jodhpur at 3.30 pm (Rs 44/340 in 2nd/1st class). The Jodhpur Express leaves Jaisalmer at 10.30 pm and arrives in Jodhpur at 5.20 am (Rs 124/568 in 2nd/1st class).
Jeep you can hire a jeep from the stand on Gandhi Chowk. To Khuri or Sam, expect to pay Rs 300 return with a one hour wait Share with people to split the cost.

Getting Around
Auto-rickshaw An anuto-Rickshaw to Gadi Sagar costs about Rs 15 one way from the fort entrance. Rickshaw drivers can be rapacious in this touristy town- bargain hard.
Bicycle A good way to zip around is by bicycle. There are a number of hire places, including a cheap one at Ghandi Chowk in the lane opposite the Sky room Restaurant (Rs 3/15 per hour/day), and another just outside the main gate of the fort (which is more expensive).

AROUND JAISALMER
There are some fascinating places to see in the area artound Jaisalmer, although it soon fades out into a barren sand dune desert which stretches across the lonely border into Pakistan.
Due to alleged arms smuggling across the border from Pakistan, most of Rajasthan, west of the National Highway No 15, is a restricted area. Special permission is required from the District Collecttor's Office in Jaisalmer (( 02992-52201) if you want to go there, and this is only issued in exceptional circumstances. Places exempted are Amar Sagar, Bada Bagh, Lodhruva, Kuldhara, Akal, Sam, Ramkund, Khuri and Mool Sagar.

Bada Bagh & Chhatris
About 7km north of Jaisalmer, Bada Bagh is a fertile oasis with uge old dam. Above the gardens are royal chhatris with finely carved ceilings and equistrain statues of former rulers. Entry is Rs 10.

Amar Sagar
Seven kilometres north-west of Jaisalmer, this once-pleasant formal garden has now fallen into ruin. The lake here dries up several months into the dry season. Nearby is beautifully carved Jain Temple. It's free to enter the temple, but there's a Rs 25/50 camera/video charge.

Lodhruva
Farther out beyond Amar Sagar, 15km north-west of Jaisalmer, are the deserted ruins of this town which was the ancient capital before the move to Jaisalmer. The Jain Temples, rebuilt in the late 1970s, are th only reminders of the city's former magnificence. The main temple has an image of Parasnath, the 23rd tirthankar. In the temple is a hole from which a cobra is said to emerge every evening - it is considered auspicious to see it. Entry to the temple is free but there's a Rs 40/70 camera/video charge.

Mool Sagar
Nine kilometres west of Jaisalmer, this is another pleasant, but somewhat neglected, small garden and tank. It belongs to the royal family of ajisalmer. Admission is Rs 5.

Sam Sand Dunes
A desert national park has been established in the Thar Desert near Sam village. One of the most popular excursions is to the sand dunes on the edge of the park, 42km from Jaisalmer. This is Jaisalmer's nearest real Sahara-like desert. It's best to be here at sunrise or sunset, and many camel safaris spend a night at the dunes. Just before sunset jeep loads of trippers arrove fro Jaisalmer to be chased across the sands by young boys selling soft drinks and by tenacious camel owners offering short rides. Yes, this place has become a massive tourist attraction, so don't set your heart on a solitary desert sunset experience. If you want less touristy sand dunes, Khuri is a good alternative. (see following section).
One tragic consequence of the rising tourist numbers is the discarded rubbish - please don't contribute to the problem. Encourage locals to keep the dunes clean. There's a small entry charge to visit the dunes.
RTDC's Hotel sam Dhani (no phone) is the only place to stay here. Doubles with bath go for Rs 300, and dorm beds are Rs 50. There is no power, but lanterns are provided. Veg meals are available. Bookings can be made at the RTDC's Hotel Moomal (( 02992-52392) in Jaisalmer.
There are just a ferw daily buses between Sam and Jaisalmer (Rs 15, 1 1/2 hours)

Khuri
Khuri is a village 40km south-west of Jaisalmer, out among the sand dunes (munis the tourist hype of those at Sam). It's a peaceful place with houses of mud and straw decorated like the patterns on Persian carpets.
Places to stay in Khuri are pretty basic with charpois (Indian rope beds) and bucket hot water. Most can arrange camel safaris.
Khuri Guest House (( 02992-75444), near th bus tand, is run by a friendly fellow and has rooms with common bath for Rs 75/100, as well as huts with common bath for Rs 100/125.
The Mama's Guest House (( 02992-92675423) consists of various attractive, but rather pricey, clusters of theatched huts. The cheapest with shared bath cost Rs 350, including meals.
The Sodha Guest House (( 02992-92675403) has doubles with common bath for Rs 150. Huts are also available at Gangaur Guest House (( 02992-92675464).
There are several daily buses between Jaisalmer and Khuri (Rs 13, 2 hours).

Akal Wood Fossil Park
Three kilometres off the road to Burmer, 16km from Jaisalmer, are the fossilised remains of a 180 million year old forest. To the untrained eye it's not particularly interesting entry is Rs 5/20 for Indians/foreigners, plus Rs 10 per vehicle. The park is open 8 am to 5 pm daily (closed for lunch 1 to 2 pm).

Barmer
Barmer is a centre for wood carving, carpets, embroidery, block printing and other handicrafts, and it's products are famous throughout Rajasthan. Otherwise, this desert town, 153km south of Jaisalmer, isn't very interesting. There are two annual fairs in Barmer: the Barmer Thar Festival in early March and the Barmer Cattle Fair (held at nearby Tilwara) in March/April. For detais, contact the Tourist Reception Centre in Jaisalmer.
RTDC's Kharal(( 02982-22956) has neat singles/doubles with attached bath for Rs 225/350. Other options include the Hotel Krishna (( 02982-20785), with rooms from Rs 100/200 (with common bath) and the even cheaper Kailash Sarover Hotel (( 02982-20730).
From Barmer there are frequent daily express buses to Jaisalmer and Jodhpur.

Pokaran
At the junction of the Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Bikaner roads, 110km from Jaisalmer, is the site of another fort - but it's not as dramatic as those of Jaisalmer or Jodhpur. The Pokaran Fort rises from the desert and shelters a tangle of narrow streets line by balconied houses. The fort is open daily 7 am to 7pm. Entry costs Rs 20 and it costs Rs 10 to bring a camera or video with you.
It was in Pokaran in May 1988 that India detonated five nuclear devices, heightening tension between India and neighbouring Pakistan. While worl leaders vehemently condemned India's nuclear tests, hundreds of thousands of Hindu loyalists celebrated the Prime Minister Atat Behari Vajpayee's controvercial decision. Pakistan's swift response was to deotenate it's own nuclear devices, igniting global concern about a nuclear arm race in south Asia.
A stop at Pakaran breaks the long journey between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. However, accommodation is lacklustre, so most travellers prefer to stop here for unch rather than overnight.
RTDC's Motel Gadavan (( 02994-22275) conveniently rents rooms with attached bath for six hours (Rs 200), or per night (Rs 300). There are also more expensive cottages. An Indian veg lunch or dinner is Rs 135 (nonveg Rs 165).
Fort Pokaran (( 02994-22274, fax 22279), within the fort, is more upmarket, but is in need of a facelift. Singles/doubles with bath are rather overpriced at Rs 950/1100. Lunch 'dimmer cost Rs 225.
There are frequent RSTC buses to Jaisalmer which take about 2 1/2 hours and cost Rs 30. There are also daily rail services to Jaisalmer (Rs 150 and Jodhpur (Rs 25).

Khichan
This small village lies a few kilometres from the large town of Phalodi, between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. It has not yet been listed as a wildlife sanctuary, but is a must for bird lovers. From late August/early September to the end of March, it's possible to witness the spectacular sight of hundreds of demoiselle cranes descending on the fields around the village.

� rhombus films, 2006 A.D.