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FORTS & PALACES OF RAJASTHAN
Rajasthan is a majestic tapestry of camels plodding over soft sand dunes
of the Thar Desert. It is a kaleidoscope of brightly turbaned men with
proud moustaches, women with twinkling anklets in colorful swirling
ghagras. The landscape is dotted with island palaces shimmering on
idyllic blue lakes, temples and fortresses situated on hilltops of the
rugged and rocky Aravallis, gardens with pavilions and kiosks and always
a few dancing peacocks. The mansions have exquisite a miniature
paintings or life size frescoes. Dancing wooden puppets and wandering
minstrels have for generations transmitted folklore, legend and local
history - many an episode of romance, knightly prowess and chivalry
connected with the 'Land of Kings.'
Forts and palaces of Rajasthan have still managed to keep alive the
magic of the fierce culture and traditions of this state. Ravaged by the
wars and impact of time, these great monuments are now again playing
hosts to number of visitors. The initiative taken by the government and
the former occupants of these structures to recreate them for modern
hospitality industry has led to great demand amongst the tourists to
visit them.
Amber Palace:
The Amber palace was built by the
Kachhwajas when they rose in eminence and power under the Mughals. Man
Singh I built it in a style to rival Mughal grandeur and opulence.
Diwan-I-Aam has a double row of columns with elephant-head brackets,
which had to be covered with stucco to escape the jealous eye of
Jehangir. Ganesh Pol, entrance portal to inner palaces, is the most
magnificent portal in Rajasthan, covered with elegant frescoes and
crowned with pavilions carrying fascinating jail screens. Jai Mandir has
millions of glass pieces on stucco. The same scheme of ornamentation is
repeated at Diwan-I-Khas, also built by Mirza Raja Singh. Sheesh Mahal,
core of this structure, is the pinnacle of the art of ornamentation with
glass. Rampas built within walls take you to the zenana palace built by
the Man Singh I. A baradari stands at the center of the spectacular
courtyard surrounded by ladies apartments and frescoes depicting
Krishna-lila scenes. Amber is undoubtedly the grandest achievement of
Rajput architecture.
City Palace, Jaipur:
From Amber, their former capital, the Kachhwaha of Rajputs of Rajasthan
moved to Jaipur. The City Palace is the core of the royal residences in
Jaipur. Each new Maharaja made his own additions to Sawai Jai Singh’s
original city palace. Chandra Mahal, private palace of the ruler, is
approached through a number of courtyards. Mubarak Mahal, in the first
courtyard, is a guesthouse now used as a textile museum. A magnificent
gateway with a grand door in brass is to be crossed to reach the
Diwan-I-Khas in a stately courtyard. It is an open hall with a double
row of columns with scalloped arches. On display here are two gigantic
silver urns used by Madho Singh II to carry water from the holy Ganges
on board the ocean liner when he traveled to London in 1902. These are
the largest silver vessels in the world – 242.7 kilograms of silver
was required to cast each urn, which could contain 8182 gallons of
water. These urns figure in the Guinness Book of World Records.
At the eastern corner of this courtyard stands the Diwan-I-Aam, now a
museum of miniature paintings, palanquins, manuscripts and Persian
carpets etc. At the other corner stands the Ridhi Sidhi Pol, splendid
gateway to the Pritam Chowk. Herein four smaller doorways are decorated
with motifs depicting the four seasons. Of immense charm is the Peacock
door. Chandra Mahal, the main royal residence, is seven storeyed and
topped by Mukut Mandir, an elegant pavilion with a curvilinear roof. The
various apartments and floors carry their own distinctive style of
ornamentation to suit the ruler’s taste. Such Niwas and Shobha Niwas
are still occupied by the ex-Maharaja. Such Niwas has been painted in
Wedgwood blue, ornamented with white lining. Only the ground floor is
open to visitors. Through the glass panes you may se the Sri Govinda
Temple, the first structure built by Sawai jai Singh in Jaipur. The
Chandra Mahal is a fanciful medley of Mughal and Rajput architectural.
City alace, Udaipur:
As the hub of Udaipur the City Palace stands majestically on the hill
guarded by crenellated fort walls. A riot of arches, domes, turrets,
crenellations and chattris crown the steep fortress. In contrast to its
rugged exterior, the inside presents a delicate and feminine world of
beauty with lavish use of marble, mirror work, frescoes, wall paintings,
a profusion of colored glass, fluted columns, inlay work, silver doors,
fountains and gardens. A series of courtyards, jharokhas, chattris,
terraces, corridors, stairways, over planning pavilions and hanging
gardens form an astonishing and harmonious whole.
The City Palace consists of four main and several minor palaces. Part of
the complex is a Hawa Mahal. The Palace of Joy, Dilkhusha Mahal, is
decorated with frescoes and wall paintings. Moti Mahal, or Palace of
Pearls, Sheesh Mahal, or the palace of mirrors and glass, and Krishna
Mahal are lavishly decorated with colors and paintings. Mor Chowk is
known for its unique peacock motif in mosaic. Bada Mahal, the garden
palace, is built on a 90 feet high natural rock formation. The Chini
chitrashala houses a rich collection of Chinese porcelain and Laxmi
Vilas Chowk is an art gallery, which houses a distinctive collection of
Mewar paintings. The Amar Vilas, the highest point with its hanging
gardens, towers and terraces, presents a majestic and panoramic view of
the town and Lake Pichola.
Lately, a part of the City Palace and its zenana have been converted
into a museum and opened up to the public. It presents a varied display
of arms and armor, paintings and photographs, royal insignia,
processional trappings and other objects, which reflect the heritage,
and tradition of the Mewar and Sisodia Maharanas.
Mehrangarh Fort,
Jodhpur:
Situated at an altitude of about 125 metres, the Mehrangarh Fort is
spread over an area of 5 sq. km in the heart of Jodhpur city. The fort
has seven gates of which the noted ones are the Jayapol, built by
Maharaja Man Singh in 1806; Fatehpol or the Victory Gate built by
Maharaja Ajit Singh; and the Lohapol or the Iron Gate. The 15
handprints, the sati marks of Maharaja Man Singh’s widows who threw
themselves upon his funeral pyre in 1843, can be seen beside the Lohapol.
On the wall, one can see the strategically located cannons.
Inside the fort, a series of courtyards and palaces greet the visitor.
The palace apartments house a splendid collection of the trappings of
the Indian royalty. The fort is visited by thousands of tourists every
year who come to have a glimpse of the artillery system of the Rajput
warriors. One can have a bird’s eye view of the city from the fort.
Magnificent Mehrangarh, one of Rajasthan’s finest forts, looks down
protectively over the city, from the hilltop. The fort is situated at an
altitude of about 125 metres and is spread over an area of 5 sq. km with
seven gates. One could drive up or walk to the top of the small and not
so steep hill. Driving or walking up, the sheer rock face from where
emerges the tall and massive sandstone wall of Mehrangarh looks awesome
indeed.
In front of the mammoth gate of Mehrangarh Fort, you can find a bearded
Jodhpur resident, dressed in traditional threads, complete with turban,
sword, shield and hookah welcoming the tourists. You can also find a
couple of local musicians singing to the local tunes. I bought the
requisite tickets and set off to explore the palaces, hallways and set
off to explore the palaces, hallways and courtyards of Mehrangarh.
It is a royal treat, as one passes through the carefully preserved
regalia and regal artifacts. Phool Mahal, Sukh Mahal, Moti Mahal.
Exquisitely decorated ceilings and walls, with delicate latticework on
the windows. Large and unusual wooden statues, painted bright, adorned a
palace section amongst an assortment of princely cradles. It is a
labyrinth of wonders, not knowing what the next doorway might lead to.
Through the various avenues and routes of this sprawled complex, you
will reach the fort roof, overlooking the entire city of Jodhpur, from
over rows of medieval cannons. What a commanding view!! Thousands of
white houses chequered with ones painted blue!!
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