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CITY: CHITTORGARH(Chittor)

Telephone extension: 01472
Population: 84,500

CHITTORGARH(Chittor)

The sprawling hilltop fort of Chiittorgarh epitomises the whole romantic, doomed ideal of Rajput chivalry. Three times in its long history, Chittor was sacked by a stronger enemy and on each occasion, the end came in textbook Rajput fashion as jauhar was declared in the face of impossible odds. The men donned the saffron robes of martyrdom and rode out from the fort to certain death, while the women and children immolated themselves on a huge funeral pyre. Honour was always more important than death.
Despite the fort's impressive location and colourful history, Chittor is off the main tourist circuit and sees surprisingly few visitors (which accounts for the lacklustre accommodation options). It's well worth the detour - if you're pressed for time you could squeeze in a day to Chittor from Udaipur.

History
Chittor's first defeat occurred in 1303 when Ala-ud-din Khilji, the Pathan king of Delhi, besieged the fort in order to capture the beautiful Padmini, wife of the Rana's uncle, Bhim Singh. When defeat was inevitable the Rajput noblewoman, including Padmini, committed jauhar and Bhim Singh led the orange-clad noblemen out to their deaths.
In 1535 it was Bahadur Shah, the sultan of Gujarat, who besieged the fort and, once again, the medieval dictates of chivalry determined the outcome. This time, the carnage was immense. It is said that 13,000 Rajput women and 32,000 Rajput warriors died following the declaration of jauhar.
The final sacking of Chittor came just 33 years later, in 1568, when the Mughal emperor, Akbar, took the town. Once again, the fort was defended heroically but, once again, the odds were overwhelming and the women performed jauhar, the fort gates were flung open and 8000 orange-robed warriors rode out to their deaths. On this occasion, Maharana Udai Singh II fled to Udaipur where he re-established his capital. In 1616, Jehangir returned Chittor to the Rajputs but there was no attempt at resettlement.

Orientation & Information
The fort stands on a 280-hectare site on top of a 180m high hill, which rises abruptly from the surrounding plain. Until 1560, the town of Chittor was also on the hilltop within the fort walls but today's modern town, known as Lower Town, sprawls to the west of the hill. A river separates it from the bus stand, railway line and the rest of the town.
The Tourist Reception Centre (( 41089) is near the train station and is open Monday to Saturday 10 am to 5 pm (closed for lunch 1 to 2 pm). You can change money at the State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur.

Fort
According to legend, Bhim, one of the Pandava heroes of the Mahabharata, is credited with the fort's original construction. All of Chittor's attractions are within the fort. A zigzag ascent of over 1 km leads through seven gateways to the main gate on the western side, the Rampol.
On the climb, you pass two chhatris, memorials marking spots where Jaimal and Kalla, heroes of the 1568 siege, fell during the struggle against Akbar. The main gate on the eastern side of the fort is known as Surajpol. Within the fort, a circular road runs around the ruins and there's a deer park at the southern end. From the western end of the fort, there are fine views over the town and across the surrounding countryside, as well as a less-than charming view of a enormous cement factory.
Today, the fort of Chittor is a virtually deserted ruin, but impressive reminders of its grandeur still stand. The main sites can all be seen in half a day (assuming you're not walking - see under Getting around) but, of you like the atmosphere of ancient sites, then it's worth spending longer as this is a very mellow place. Entry 5to the fort is Rs 2/50 for Indians/foreigners; there's a Rs 25 video camera charge for the Tower of Victory. Car entry is free, but if there is just one passenger there is a Rs 25 charge. Guides are available in the fort, usually at the Rana Kumbha Palace; they charge around Rs 200.

Rana Kumbha Palace
After entering the fort and turning right, you come almost immediately to the ruins of this palace. It has elephant and horse stables and a Shiva temple. On of the jauhars is said to have taken place in a vaulted cellar. Across from the palace is the archaeological office and museum, and the treasury building or Nau Lakha Bhandar. The Singa Chowri Temple is nearby.

Fateh Prakash Palace
Just beyond the Rana Kumbha Palace, this palace is much more modern (Maharan Fateh Singh died in 1930). It houses a small museum, and the rest of the building is closed. The museum is open daily except Friday 10.30 am to 4.30 pm. Entry is Rs 3 (free on Monday).

Tower of Victory
Continuing anti-clock wise around the fort, you come to the Jaya Stambh, or Tower of Victory. Erected by Rana Kumbha to commemorate his victory over Muhammad Khilji of Malwa in 1440, the tower was constructed between 1458 and 1468. It rises 37m in nine storeys and you can climb the narrow stairs to the eighth storey. Watch your head on the lintels! Entry is Rs 3 (free on Friday).
Hindu sculptures adorn the outside of the tower, but the dome was damaged by lightning and repaired during the last century. Close to the tower is the Mahasati, an area where the ranas were cremated during Chittorgarh's periods the Mewar capital. (Mewar is the area encompassing Chittorgarh and Udaipur.) There are many sati stones here, commemorating women who burned on their husbands' funeral pyres. The Sammidheshwar Temple stands in the same area.

Gaumukh Resevoir
Walk down beyond the temple and, at the very edge of the cliff, you'll see this deep tank. A spring feeds the tank from a carved cow's mouth in the Cliffside - from which the reservoir got its name. The opening here leads to the cave in which Padmini and her compatriots are said to have committed jauhar.

Padmini's Palace
Continuing south, you come to Padmini's Palace, built beside a large pool with a pavilion in its centre. Legend relates that, as Padmini sat in this pavilion. Ala-ud-din was permitted to see her reflection in a mirror in the palace. This glimpse was the spark that convinced him to destroy Chittor in order to possess her. The bronze gates in this pavilion were carried off by Akbar and can now be seen in the fort at Agra.
Continuing around the circular road, you pass the deer park, the Bhimlat Tank, the Surajpol and the Temple of Neelkanth Mahadev, before reaching the Tower of Fame.

Tower of Fame
Chittor's other famous tower, the 22m high Kirti Stambha, or Tower of Fame, is older (probably built around the 12th century) and smaller than the Tower of Victory. Built by a Jain merchant, it is dedicated to Adinath, the first tirthankar (revered Jain teacher), and is decorated with naked figures of the various tirthankars, thus indicating that it is a Digambara, or Sky Clad, monument. A narrow stairway leads through the seven storeys to the top.

Other Buildings
Close to the Fateh Prakash Palace is the Meera Temple, built during the reign of Rana Kumbha in the ornate Indo-Aryan style and associated with the mystic-poetess Meerabai. The larger temple which is in this same compound is the Kumbha Shyam Temple, or Temple of Varah.
Across from Padmini's Palace is the Kalika Mata Temple, an 8th century Surya Temple. It was later converted to a temple to the goddess Kali. At the northern tip of the fort is another gate, the Lokhota Bari, while at the southern end is a small opening from which criminals and traitors were hurled into the abyss.

Places to Stay & Eat

Overall, hotels in Chittor are disappointing; the cleanliness and service is below average and many of the cheaper places have rather grotty bathrooms. The Paying Guest house Scheme operates in Chittor (ask at the Tourist Reception Centre).
Shalimar Hotel (( 40842), opposite the train station, has dreary singles/ doubles for Rs 80/100 with common bath, or Rs 125/200 with bath attached.

Hotel Chetak (( 41588), nearby, is a somewhat better choice. Rooms start at Rs 150/250 with bath. There's also a good restaurant.

Hotel Meera ( 40266), also near the train station, is a more salubrious choice, with singles/doubles from Rs 300/350 with bath.

Natraj Tourist hotel (( 441009), by the bus stand, is very basic but dirt cheap. Small rooms cost just Rs 40/60 with common bath, Rs 60/ 100 with bath; but you'll probably have to get them to change the sheets.

Bhagwati Hotel (( 46226), just over the river, is better, and has rooms for Rs 60/80 with bath (bucket hot water). Some rooms can be noisy.

RTDC's Hotel Panna (( 41238), closer to the (new) town centre, has dorm beds for Rs 50, singles/doubles with bath ranging from Rs 175/225 to Rs 475/575. The rooms are nothing special.

Hotel Pratap Palace (v 40099, fax 41042), between the bus stand and the RTDC's Panna hotel, is popular with travellers. Rooms with attached bath start at Rs 200/250. A half tandoori chicken in the restaurant costs Rs 80. Village safaris can be arranged, as well as visits to their castle in Bijapur (see around Chittorgarh).

Hotel Padmini ((/fax 42718), a little out of town by the Beach River, is the most upmarket place in Chittor, with rooms from Rs 400/500. The vegetarian restaurant is good value; palak paneer is Rs 35.

Retiring rooms at the train station cost Rs 100 per double; Rs 200 with air-con. They sell simple veg thalis (Rs 16).

Getting There & Away

Chittor is on the main bus and rail routes. By road, it's 182km from Ajmer, 158km from Bundi and 112km from Udaipur. There are frequent connections to these places. All the Kota buses go via Bundi (a slow 4 1/2 hour trip).
It's possible to take an early bus from Udaipur to Chittorgarh (Rs 44, three hours), Udaipur to Chittorgarh (Rs 44, three hours), spend about three hours visiting the fort, and then catch a late afternoon bus to Ajmer, but this is definitely pushing it.
Chittorgarh has rail links with Ahmedabad, Ajmer, Udaipur, Jaipur, Kota and Delhi.

Getting Around

It's about 6km from the train station to the fort, less from the bus stand, and 7km around the fort itself, not including the long southern loop out to the deer park. To tour the fort, auto-rickshaws charge around Rs 100, which includes waiting time at the various sites. Bicycles can also be rented near the train station (Rs 30 per day), allowing you to explore the fort at leisure. As Indian bicycles rarely have gears, you may have to push the machine to the top - still, they're great once you get to the top, and for the journey back down - but check the brakes first!

AROUND CHITTORGARH

In Bijapur, 40km from chittor, Castle Bijapur is a converted 16th century palace with pleasant rooms from Rs 800/850 to Rs 1350/1500. The friendly owners can organise horse and jeep safaris to nearby villages. Reservations should be made through the Hotel Pratap Palace in Chittor (( 01472-40099, fax 41042). There are frequent daily buses from Chittor to Bijapur (Rs 20, 1 1/2 hours).
Lying on the Bundi-Chittorgarh road, 48km from Bundi, Menal is a complex of Shiva temples built during the Gupta period. After a good monsoon, there's an impressive water fall in this area.

Bijolia, 16km from Menal and Bijolia takes you to Mandalgarh. This is the third fort of Mewar built by Rana Kumbha - the others are the great fort of Chittorgarh and the fort at Kumbhalgarh.

One of the oldest towns in Rajasthan, Nagri is 17km north of chittor. Hindu and Buddhist remains from the Mauryan to the Gupta periods have been found here.
At the small town of Jagat, 20km south of the Udaipur-Chittorgarh road, is a small 10th century Durga temple. There are some fine sculptures, including a couple of small erotic carvings, which have inspired some people to call the town the Khajuraho of Rajasthan (total nonsense!).