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CITY: BUNDI

Telephone extension: 0747
Population: 77,000

Bundi

Bundi, 39 km north west of Kota, has a good deal of panache and rustic charm. It was the capital of a major princely state during the heyday of the Rajputs. Although its importance dwindled with the rise of Kota during the Mughal times, it kept its independence until it incorporation into the state of Rajasthan in 1947. Kota itself was a part of Bundi until its separation in 1624 at the instigation of the Mughal emperor, Jehangir. The town's Rajput legacy is well preserved in the massive fort, which broods over the town in the narrow valley below, and the imposing palace which stands beneath it. In this palace are the famous Bundi murals.
Bundi has a lot of interesting historic sites, but sadly many are in a state of dispair.

Information
There's a small tourist office (( 22697) in the grounds of the Circuit House. It's open Monday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2 to 5 pm. The Bank of Baroda, which is opposite Ranji-ki-Baori, will change travellers cheques. The Haveli Braj Bhushanjee (see places to Stay) is planning to offer an e mail service.
If you're feeling a litte off colour, there's an Aurvedic Hospital (( 22708) at Balchand Pada (opposite the Haveli Braj Bhushanjee), which prescribes natural remedies.

Taragarh
The rather neglected Taragarh, or Star Fort, was built in 1354 and is a great place to ramble around at leisure. It is reached by steep road leading up the hillside to its enormous gateway, topped by rampant elephants. Inside are huge reservoirs carved out of solid rock and the Bhim Burj, the largest of the battlements, on which is mounted a famous canon. Views over the town and surrounding countryside are magical, especially at sunset. It's a shame that the national broadcaster, Doordarshan, decided to build an ugly concrete transmission tower right next to the fort - it's a real eyesore.

Bundi Palace
The palace is reached from the north-western end of the bazaar, through a huge wooden gate way and up a steep cobbled ramp. Only one portion of the outer perimeter of the palace, the Chittra Shala, is officially open to the public. To see the best Bundi murals in the closed sections, you could try contacting the secretary of the maharaja of Bundi (( 32812), or ask at you hotel.

Baolis & Water Tanks
Bundi has scores of impressive baolis (step wells), many right in the centre of town. The note worthy Rniji-ki-Baoli is 46m deep and has some fine carving. It is one of the largest of its kind, built in 1699 by Rani Nathavatji. The Nagar Sagar Kund is a pair of matching step-wells just outside the Chogan Gate to the old city, right in the centre of the town.
Visible from the fort is the square artificial lake of Nawal Sagar. In the centre is a temple to Varuna, the Aryan god of water. Also worth a look are the Bhora-ji-ka-Kund and Dhanabhai Kund.

Other Attractions
Take a stroll through the old city to soak in the medieval ambience of this town. It's worth visiting the colourful sabzi (vegetable) market situated between Raniji-ki-Baori and Nagar Sagar Kund (take along your cameras)

Bundi's other attractions are all out of town and are difficult to reach without transport. The modern palace, known as the beautiful artificial tank and gardens, and is several kilometres out of town on the Ajmer road. It was closed to the public, mainly due to dispute between the current maharaja and his sister. The maharaja sold this palace to the Oberoi hotel chain, but his sister is now claiming her share of the proceeds. Unless the dispute is settled the palace will remain closed.

There's another palace, the smaller Sukh Mahal, closer to town on the edge of the beautiful Jait Sagar. It's now an Irrigation Rest House. The nearby, rather neglected Sar Bagh has a number of royal cenotaphs, some with terrific carvings. Shikar Burj is a small former royal hunting lodge on the road which runs along the north side of the Jait Sagar. South of town is the stunning 84 Pillared Cenotaph, set in gardens and definitely worth a visit, especially at night when it is lit up.

About 32km from Bundi at the village of Garardha, you can see some of the boulders flanking the river; these are believed to be about 15,000 years old. There's a curious depiction of a man riding a huge bird as well as some hunting scenes. It's best to come here with a guide who is familiar with the area - contact Mukesh Mehta at the Haveli Braj Bhushanjee (See Places to Stay) for more information.

Places to Stay & Eat
The commission racket operates in Bundi. Beware of auto-rickshaw drivers who may try to dump you at a hotel where they get commission (usually not the best places).
The tourist office has a list of Bundi's paying guesthouses (these are particularly good if you're seeking budget accommodation).

Haveli Braj Bhushannjee (( 32322, fax 32142), opposite the Ayurvedic Hospital, just below the palace, is the most popular place with travellers and deservedly so. The views from the rooftop terrace are magical. Quaint rooms with private bath start at Rs 250/300. There are wholesome, but expensive, set veg meals (Rs 250). They do free pick-ups from the bus stand and train station (advance notice appreciated). If you arrive after hours, just ring the doorbell. Ask to see their photos of the Bundi murals which were taken inside the closed part of the palace.

Royal Retreat ((34426), ideally situated in the palace compound, is also a very pleasant place set around a quiet, open-air courtyard. There are two small double rooms with common bath for Rs 250, and several larger rooms with bath for Rs 250, and several larger rooms with bath for Rs 550/750. There's a reasonably priced veg restaurant (open to non-residents) and an interesting collection of handicrafts for sale in their shop.

Ishwari Niwas (( 32414, fax 32486, 1 Civil Lines), opposite the tourist office, has royal associations and is good, if pricey, compared to other hotels. Rooms are set around a lovely courtyard and begin at Rs 600/1200. The owners seem friendly and keen to help.

Bundi Tourist Palace (( 32650), opposite Azad Park, is ideal if you're low on dough. There are six rooms with common bath for Rs 60/120; hot water costs Rs 5 per bucket. The rooms are tiny but OK. No meals are available.

Diamond Hotel (( 22656), in the noisy bazaar area, has somewhat grimy singles/doubles with bath from Rs 75/150. The restaurant serves veg dishes at nominal prices.

RTDC's Hotel Vrindawati (( 32473) out by Jait Sagar, has seven rooms with bath ranging from Rs 275/350 to Rs 325/400. The cheaper rooms are better value. There's a small dining hall.

Getting There & Away
There are express buses to Ajmer (Rs 60, five hours), Kota (Rs 15, 50 minutes), Sawai Madhopur (Rs 50, 4 1/2 hours), Udaipur (RS 120, 8 1/2 hours) and Jaipur (Rs 80, five hours).
There are rail connections between Bundi and Agra, Chittor, Kota and onwards.

Getting Around
The bus stand is at the Kota (south-east) end of town. Auto-rickshaw drivers will quote Rs 50 per hour for local sightseeing. Alternatively, bikes are a great way to buzz around and can be rented near the old city kotwali (police station) for Rs 10 per day.