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CITY: BIKANER

Telephone extension: 0151
Population: 493,000

BIKANER
This desert town in the north of the state was founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a descendent of Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur. Like many others in Rajasthan, the old city is surrounded by a high crenallated wall and, like Jaisalmer, it was once an important stagind post on the great caravan trade routes. The Ganga Canal, built between 1925 and 1927, irrigates a large area of previously arid land around Bikaner.

As the tourist hype in Jaisalmer heightens, Bikaner is becoming more and more popular with travellers. It's easy to see why - Bikaner has a superb fort, camel safaris, and 30km to the south is the extraordinary Karni Mata Temple where thousands of holy rat are worshipped.

Orientation & Information
The old city is encircled by a 10km long city wall with five entrance gates, constructed in the 18th century . the fort and palace, built of the same reddish-pink sandstone as Jaipur's famous buildings,a are outside the city walls.

The helpful Tourist Reception centre (( 544125) is in the grounds of the RTDC's Hotel Dhola Maru. It's open daily except Sunday 10 am to 5 pm.

You can change money at the State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur, near the Thar Hotel, and at its public park branch (near Junagarh). At the time of writing, no banks in Bikaner issued cash advances on credit cards.

Junagarh
Constructed between 1588 and 1593 by Raja Rai Singh - a general in the army of the Mughal Emperor, Akbart - this most impressive fort has a 986m long wakk with 37 bastions, a moat and two entrances. The Surajpol, or sun Gate, is the main entrance to the fort. The palaces within the fort are on the southern side and make a picturesque ensemble of courtyards, balconies, kiosks, towers and windows. A major feature of this fort and its palaces is the magnificent stone carving.

Highlights include: the Diwan-I-Khas; the Phool Mahal (flower Palace), which is decorated with paintings and carved marble panels; and the Hawa Mahal, Badal Mahal and Anup Mahal. Items of interest include a unuual Rajput weapon collection, and an old WWI biplane presented to Maharaja Ganga Singh by the British. This is one of the only two models of this plane in the world.

The fort is open 10 am to 4.30 pm daily. Entry is Rs 10/50 for Indians/foreigners and there's a Rs 30/50 camera/video charge. A guide is included in the ticket price.

Lalgarh Palace
Three kilometres north of the city centre this red sandstone palace was built by Maharaja Ganga Singh (1881-1942) in memory of his father Maharaja Lal singh. Although it's an imposing building with overhanging balconies and delicate lattice work, it's not the most beautiful of Rajasthani royal resedances.

The Sri Sadul Museum covers the entire 1st floor of the palace. It has an assortment of exhibits, including old photos depicting royal hunts, and an extraordinary collection of the former maharaja's personal possessions - golf tees, sneakers, earplugs and even his electric toothbrush! There's also the usual depressing exhibition of Indian beasts, shot and stuffed. The museum is open daily except Wednesday 10am to 5 pm; entry is Rs 5. Photgraphy is not allowed. In front of the palace is a carriage from the maharaja's royal train.

Other Attractions
The narrow streets of the old city conceal a number of old havelis and a couple of notable Jain Temples. The Bhandeshwar and Sandeshwar temples date from around the 15th century. The temples have colourful wall paintings and some intricate coarving.

The Ganga Golden Jubliee Museum houses an interesting collection of sculptures, terracotta ware, paintings and also musical instruments. It's open dailyexcept Friday 10am to 4.30pm and there's a small entry fee (video cameras are prohibited).
There's a Camel Festival held in Bikaner each January (see the Festivals of Rajasthan table earlier in this chapter for the exact dates).

Organised Tours
The Tourist Reception Centre can arrange English-speaking guides (Rs 75 for two hours).
If you wanted to take a camel safari in Jaisalmer but didn't because it was too much of a scene, Bikaner is an excellent alternative. One very good camel safari operator in the region is Vino Desert Safari (Ph: +91 - 151 - 2270445, Cell: +91 - 9414139245 ), opposite the Gopeshwar Temple, which is run by the amiable Vinod Bhojak. Camel treks (minimum of two days) cost Rs 400 per person per day, including meals and blankets (you sleep under the stars). More expensive safaris in tented accommodation are also available. If you're looking for more upmarket camel safaris, try Rajasthan Safaris & Treks (( 543748); prices begin at rs 1200 per person per day (minimum of six people).

Places to Stay - Budget
There are numerous options near the train station. Station Rd is an amazingly busy throughfare so the noise level in any room fronting it can be diabolical - choose carefully. Many places in the rock bottom bracket have Indian style toilets.

The tourist Reception Centre has a list of Bikaner's paying guesthouses.

Hotel Maghsagar Castle (( 527315, fax 522041, 9 Gajner rd) is popular with travellers and has clean, spacious rooms with attached bath from Rs 250/300. The front rooms can cop a bit of traffic noise.

Hotel Kishan Palace (( 627762,), with a cottage for Rs 100/150 with bath, and regular rooms from Rs 200/300.

Hotel Desert Winds (( 542202), near the Karni Singh Stadium, has singles/doubles with bath from Rs 200/250.

Evergreen Hotel (( 542061), on Station Rd, is not a bad choice, although some of the rooms can be noisy. Singles/doubles with common bath cost Rs 80/125 with attached bath. Hot water is by the bucket (Rs 5). There's a restaurant down stairs. Nearby is the similarly priced impressive Hotel Deluxe (( 529127).

Hotel Akashdeep (( 543745), behind the hotel Deluxe, has rather tatty rooms with bath for Rs 100/150 (free bucket hot water). Single women travellers may fel uncomfortable here.

Hotel Shri Shanti niwas (( 521925) is on the road directly opposite the train station. Basic but quite clean rooms are Rs 75/125 with attached bath.

Indre Lodge (( 524813) is about 10m farther along this road, down a laneway that leads to the right, and is quieter than most doubles with bath go for Rs 70/150 (Rs 4 for a bucket hot water). Better rooms are Rs 125/220. No mels are available.

Hotel Marudhar Heritage (( 522524), nearby, offers more luxurious rooms with bath for Rs 225/300, Rs 350/450 with air cooling and Rs 750 for an air-con double.

RTDC's Hotel Dhola Maru (( 529621) is near Poonam Singh Circle, ikm from the cntre of the city. Bland rooms with bath begin at Rs 175/225.

Retiring rooms at the train station cost Rs 75/115 with bath; Rs 150/200 with air-con. The dorm costs Rs 35/50 for 12/24 hours.

Places to Stay - Mid Range
Bhairon Vilas ((/fax 544751), near Junagarh, opposite the main post office, is the funkiest place to stay in Bikaner, managed by the equally funky Harshvardhan Singh. Quaint doubles range from Rs 500 to Rs 1600 - request a quite room. Meals are available with advance notice in the dining room.

Hotel Harasar Haveli (( 209891, fax 525150), near the Karni Singh Stadium, is another great place to stay, with clean singles/doubles for Rs 450/650. The owner, Vishvajeet Singh, can organise traditional fire dance performances at his farmhouse in Khara village, 20km from Bikaner (Rs 400 per person, minimum of five people).

Hotel Palace View (( 543625, fax 522741) is the closest hotel to the Lalgarh Palace and is a good place to stay. Clean rooms are Rs 750/850, or smaller rooms are Rs 400/500. Nearby is the Pink hotel Sagar (( 520677), with rooms from Rs 300/400.

Hotel Padmini Niwas (( 522794, 148 Sadul Ganj) has clean singles/doubles from Rs 425/550, up to Rs 650/750 with air-con. There's a restaurant and a nice lawn area.
Hotel Kalinga (( 209751), in the Lalgarh palace campus area, has spartarn singles/doubles for Rs 300/400.

Hotel Joshi (( 527700, fax 521213) near the train station, has singles/doubles from Rs 300/375 and there's a veg restaurant here. Good ice cream is available next door at Kwality.

Thar Hotel (( 543050, fax 525150), near the hospital, has mundane rooms from Rs 511/660. There's a nonveg restaurant here.

Hotel Jaswant Bhawan ((/fax 521834), is an unchecked option not far from the train station on Alakh Sagar Rd. singles/doubles are Rs 450/500. If you do end up staying here, let us know how it was.

Marudyan Resort (( 86945, fax 544107), 10km out of Bikaner on the Jaipur road, has modern cottage style accommodation for Rs 950/1150
Places to Stay -- Top End
Hotel Bhanwar Niwas (( 201043, fax 200880), in the Rampuri Haveli, near the kotwali (police station) in the old city, is an excellent choice. This attractive pink sandstone building has rooms around a courtyard for Rs 2000/2900. In the foyer is a stunning blue 1927 Buik with silver horn in the shape of a dragon.

Lalgarh Palace Hotel (( 540201, fax 522253), 3km north of the city centre, is part of the maharaja's modern palace and has well -appointed singles/doubles for US$85/135. There's a bar, restaurant, billiard room, indoor pool and resident astrologer. In the same compound you'll find the smaller Maan Bilas Palace Hotel (( 524711), with nine rooms going for Rs 1195/1675 a single/double.
Karni Bhawan Palace Hotel (( 524701, fax 522408), in Gandhi Colony, near the Lalgarh Palace hotel, is ugly but peaceful and comfortable. Art Deco-style rooms cost Rs 1195/2395, or Rs 3500 for a huge suite. Good meals are available in the restaurant.

Places to Eat
Bikaner is noted for the spicy snacks known as namkin, sold in the shops alonmg Station Rd, among othe places.

Deluxe Restaurant, at the hotel of the same name on Station Rd, features a limited selection of cheap veg south Indian and Chinese dishes. All dishes are under Rs 30. there's an extencive ice cream menu.

Amber Restaurant, diagonally opposite the Deluxe, is also popular for veg fare. Most didhes are under Rs 40 and there are some continental dishes such as baked macroni (Rs 36). Indian sweets are good.
Hotel Bhanwar Niwas welcome non guests to their vegetarian dinning hall (with advance reservation). The set lunch/dinner is Rs 250/275, or you canjust come here fo a drink in the courtyard.

Lalgarh Palace Hotel is good for a treat; the set lunch/dinner cost US$10/11, or you can opt for a la carte dinning.

Chhotu Motu Joshi Sweet Shop on Station Rd is Bikaner's most loved sweet stop, with an assortment of Indian treats.

Shopping
On the right-hand side as you enter the fort is a small craftshop, Abhivyakti, run by the Urmul Trust. Items sold here are of high quality and made by people from surrounding villages. Proceeds go directly to improve health and education projects in these villages. You can browse here without the usual constant hassles to buy.
Go to Usta St in the old city to see the making of traditional usta (cmel leather) products.

Getting There & Around
The bus stand 3km north of the city centre, almost opposite the road leading to the Lalgarh Palace hotel (if youre bus is coming from the south and you want to get down in the town centre, ask the driver - you may be lucky!) . there are frequent express buses to a variety of destinations including Udaipur (Rs 213), Ajmer (Rs 105), Jaipur (Rs 137, Jodhpur (Rs 101, Jaisalmer (Rs 133), Jhunujhunu (Rs 90) and Kota (Rs 186).
There are several trains to Jaipur, Jodhpur and Delhi - the Tourist Reception Centre has a useful chart with details.

Getting Around
An auto-rickshaw from the train station to the palace should cost Rs 20, but you'll probably be asked for more. Bicycles can be hired at the Dau Cycle Shop, opposite the police station on Station Rd (Rs 2/10 per hour/day).

Around Bikaner

Devi Kund
Eight kilometres east of Bikaner, this is the site of the royal chhatris of many of the Bika dynasty rulers. The white marble chhatri of Maharaja Surat Singh is very imposing.

Camel Research & Breeding Farm
This government-managed camel research and breeding station, 8km from Bikaner, is probably unique in Asia. The British army had a camel corps drawn from Bikaner during WWI. As this is essentially a research centre and not a tourist site, there's frankly not a great deal to see here other than camels (which may not appeal to those who didn't get to Jaisalmer).
The farm is open Monday to Friday and every second Saturday 3 to 5 pm (free entry). Cameras are theoretically prohibited, but this doesn't seem to be policed.

Gajner Wild life Sanctuary
The lake and forested hills of this reserve 32km from Bikaner on the Jaisalmer road are inhabited by wild fowl and a number of deer and antelopes. Imperial sand grouse migrate here in the winter. The reserve is only accessible by Gajner Palace Hotel vehicles (Rs 100 per jeep, maximum 6 people).
Gajner Palace Hotel (( 01534-55065, fax 55060, reservations 0151-524701, fax 522408) is the former royal winter palace and is ideally situated on the banks of a lake. It's an impressive building made of red sandstone and is set in serene surroundings. Standard rooms are Rs1195/2395 (the Gulab Niwas garden rooms are best). Old-fashioned suites (all with lake view) are in the main palace and cost Rs 3500.

Kolayat
This small temple town set around a lake, 22km south of Gajner, is often referred to as a mini-Pushkar, but is far less touristy. There's a fair here around the same time as the Pushkar Camel Fair (minus the camels and cattle, but with plenty of sadhus).

Deshnok
A visit to the fascinating Karni Mata Temple at this village 30km south of Bikaner, is not for the squeamish. The thousands of rats that inhabit the temple are considered incarnations of mystics, and the holy rodents run riot over the temple complex.
Once you've admired the silver doors and marble carvings donated by Maharaja Ganga Singh, you plunge into the rats' domain, hoping that some will scamper over your feet - most auspicious. Keep your eyes peeled for a rare white rat - it's considered good fortune if you spot one. Eating prasaad (holy food offering) that has been salivated over by these holy rats also apparently brings good luck, but is not recommended for the usual whimpish western constitution.
The temple is open 6am to 9.30 pm daily and there's a Rs 20 camera charge, Rs 50 for a video. And remember, this is a place of worship, so don't conveniently forget to remove your shoes!
There are buses every hour from Bikaner to Deshnok (Rs 12, 40 minutes).

� rhombus films, 2006 A.D.