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CITY: ALWAR

Telephone extension: 0144
Population: 250,000

ALWAR

Alwar was once an important Rajput state. It emerged in the 18th century under Pratap Singh, who pushed back the rulers of Jaipur to the south and the Jats of Bharatpur to the east, and who successfully resisted the Marathas. It was one of the first Rajput states to ally itself with the fledgling British empire, although British interference in Alwar's internal affairs meant that this partnership was not always amicable.
The Tourist Reception Centre (( 21868) is not far from the train station and is open Monday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2 to 5 pm. You can change foreign currency at the State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur, near the bus stand.

Bala Quila
This imposing fort, with its 5km of ramparts, stands 300m above the city. Predating the time of Pratap Singh, it's one the few forts in Rajasthan built before the rise of the Mughals. Unfortunately, the fort now houses a radio transmitter station and the inside can only be visited with special permission from the superintendent of police (( 337453).

Palace Complex
Below the fort sprawls the huge city palace complex, its massive gates and tank lined by a beautifully symmetrical chain of ghats and pavilions. Today, most of the complex is occupied by government offices, but there's an interesting government museum housed in the former City Palace. It's open daily except Friday 10 am to 4.30 pm and entry is Rs 3 (free on Monday). Photography is prohibited. Some of the museum's exhibits include stunning weapons, royal ivory slippers, and old musical instruments.

Places to Stay & Eat
For details about Alwar's paying guest accommodation, contact the Tourist Reception Centre.
Ankur (( 333025), New Alankar (( 20027), Atlantic (( 21581), Akash Deep (( 22912) and the Ashoka (( 21780) are a cluster of cheap hotels which all face each other around a central courtyard, about 500m east of the bus stand, set back from Manu Marg. The five hotels are each owned by one of five brothers, and each hotel begins with a letter 'A'! Without wishing to upset any of the brothers, the Ashoka seems to be the best of the lot, with singles/doubles with attached bath (Rs 3 for bucket hot water) for Rs 100/150 and Rs 200/250 with geyser. However, there's really not much difference between them, and prices are comparable at all the hotels.

Hotel Aravall (( 332883, fax 332011), near the train station, is run by the Kakkar family (the owner's son, Achal and his wife, Anika, are helpful). Dorm beds cot Rs 100, singles/doubles with private bath start from Rs 200/250 (request a quite room). There's a restaurant, bar and pool (summer only).
RTDC's Hotel Meenal (( 22852) is a respectable mid-range place, charging from Rs 350/450 for tidy singles/doubles. There's a little dining hall; a veg/nonveg thali costs Rs 55/68.

Alwar Hotel (( 20012, fax 332250, 26 Manu Marg), set in a leafy garden, has decent rooms from Rs 300/450 with bath. There's a good restaurant.
Retiring rooms at the train station have beds for Rs 40 per person.

Narula's, near the Ganesh Talkies, whips up Indian, Chinese and continental cuisine. This pleasant restaurant, which is down a stairway, offers a good choice of dishes, including veg sizzlers (Rs 45) and strawberry milkshakes (Rs25).

Getting There & Away
From Alwar, there are frequent local and express buses to Sariska (Rs 8/13 local/express, on hour), Bharatpur (Rs 45, 3 1/2 hours express; Rs 29, 4 1/2 hours local), Deeg (Rs 23/30 local express, 2 1/2 hours), Jaipur (Rs 45/61 local/express, four hours).
There are also rail links with Jaipur and Delhi.

Getting Around
There are cycle-rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, tempos and some tongas. A cycle-rickshaw from the train station to the town centre should cost Rs 10. Bicycles can be hired near the train station (Rs 20 per day).

AROUND ALWAR
Siliserh
At Siliserh, 20km south west of Alwar, RTDC's Hotel Lake Palace (( 0144-86322) is a fairly modest palace built by the Alwar Maharaja Vinaya Singh. It is a dramatic location, overlooking a picturesque lake, and has rooms from Rs 200/300 with private bath. This property is beautiful, but unfortunately the cleanliness and service is variable.

Kesroli
Twelve kilometres fromAlwar in Kesroli village, Hill Fort Kesaroli (( 0144-81312, reservations 011-4616145, fax 4621112) is run by the Neemrana Fort people (see the following section). Double rooms in the 14th century fort range from Rs 1500 to Rs 4000. The buffet lunch/dinner is Rs 150/200.

Neemrana
About 75 km north of Alwar is the restored for Neerama Fort Palace ((/fax 01494-46005, 011-4616145, fax 4621112 for Delhi bookings, email neemrana@fwacziarg.com). Dating from the 15th century, the Rajput king Prithviraj Chauhan III regained from here. Rooms are suitably luxurious and start from Rs 1500/2500 (some rooms are better than others). Nonguests can visit for Rs 100 (free if you eat at the restaurant).

SARISKA NATIONAL PARK
Located 107km from Jaipur and 200km from Delhi, the sanctuary is in a wooded valley surrounded by barren mountains. It covers 800 sq km (including a core area of 498 sq km) and has sambar, spotted deer, wild boar and , above all, tigers. Project Tiger has been in charge of the sanctuary since 1979.

As at Ranthambore National Park, also in Rajasthan, this park contains ruined temples, as well as a fort and pavilions built by the mahrajas of Alwar. The sanctuary can be visited year-round, although during July and August your chance of spotting wildlife is minimal. The best time is between November and June. You'll see most wildlife in the evening, although tiger sightings are becoming more common during the day.

The park is open in winter (October to the end of February) from 7 am to 4 pm, and during the rest of the tear from 6.30 am to 5 pm. The best way to visit the park is by jeep and these can be arranged at the Forest Reception Office (( 41333) on Jaipur Rd, directly opposite the Hotel Sariska Palace. Deisel/petrol jeeps cost Rs 500/600 per jeep (maximum five people). There's an entry fee of Rs 125 per jeep and an admission fee of Rs 20/100 for Indians/foreigners. Entry for Indians is free on Tuesday and Saturday (from 8 am to 3 pm), so try to avoid visiting on these days as the park can get busy. Using a still camera is free but a video camera will cost you Rs 200. Guides are available for Rs 50 per hour.