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CITY: AJMER
Telephone extension: 0145
Population: 477,000
Just over 130 km southwest of Jaipur is Ajmer, a burgeoning town on the shore of the Ana Sagar, flanked by barren hills. Historically, Ajmer had considerable strategic importance and was sacked by Mohammed of Ghori on one of his periodic forays from Afghanistan. Later, it became a favourite residence of the mighty Mughals. One of the first contacts between the Mughals and the British occurred in Ahmer, when Sir Thomas Roe met with Jehangir here in 1616.
The city was subsequently taken by the Scindias and, in 1818, it was handed over to the British, becoming one of the few places in Rajasthan controlled directly by the British rather than being part of a princely state. The British chose Ajmer as the site for Mayo College, a prestigious school opened in 1875 exclusively for the Indian princes, but today open to all those who can afford the fees. Ajmer is a major centre for Muslim pilgrims during the fast of Ramadan, and has some impressive Muslim architecture. However for most travellers, Ajmer is essentially just a stepping-stone to nearby Pushkar. It can make a convenient base if you can't get accommodation in Pushkar during the Camel Fair.
Orientation & Information
The main bus stand is close to the RTDC's Hotel Khadim on the east side of town. The train station and most of the hotels are on the west side of town.
The tourist office (( 52426) is in the RTDC's Hotel Khadim compound and is open daily except Sunday 8 am to noon and 3 to 6 pm. There's also a small tourist information counter at the train station (closed Sunday). The State Bank of India, opposite the
Collectorate, changes travellers cheques and currency. The Bank of Baroda on Prithviraj Marg, opposite the main post office, only changes travellers cheques, but also issues cash advances on MasterCard and Visa.
Ana Sagar
This artificial lake was created in the 12th century by damming the River Luni. On its bank is a pleasant park, the Dault Bagh, containing a series of marble pavilions erected in 1637 by Shah Jahan. There are fine views from the hill beside the Dault Bagh. At the Ana Sagar jetty, paddle boats can be hired for Rs 40 (30 minutes).
The lake tends to dry up if the monsoon is poor, so the city's water supply is taken from Foy Sagar, 3km farther up the valley.
Dargah
At the foot of a desolate hill in the old part of town, this one of India's most important places for Muslim pilgrims. The Dargah is the tomb of a Sufi saint, Khwaja Muin-uddin Chisthti, who came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192. construction of the shrine was completed by Humayun and the gate was added by the nizam of Hydrabad. Akbar used to make the pilgrimage to the Dargah from Agra once a year.
You have to cover your head in certain areas so don't forget to take a scarf or cap - you can buy one at he bazaar leading to the shrine.
As you enter the courtyard, removing your shoes at the gateway, a mosque constructed by Akbar is on the right. The large iron cauldrons are for offerings which are customarily shared by families involved in the shrine's upkeep. In an inner court, there is another mosque built by Shah Jahan. Constructed of white marble, it has 11 arches and a Persian inscription running the full length of the building.
The saint's tomb is in the centre of the second court. It has a marble dome and the actual tomb inside is surrounded by a silver platform. The horseshoes nailed to the shrine doors are offerings from successful horse dealers! Beware of 'Guides' pestering for donations around the Dargah using the standard fake donation books or 'visitor registers' - you'll have to pay a generous donation if you sign up.
The tomb attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year on the anniversary of the saint's death, the Urs, in the seventh month of the lunar calendar (the dates are variable so check with the tourist office). It's an interesting festival, but the crowds can be suffocating. As well as the pilgrims, Sufis from all over India converge on Ajmir.
Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra & Taragarh
Beyond the Dargah, on the very outskirts of town, are the ruins of the Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra mosque. According to legend, its construction, in 1153, took 2 1/2 days, as its name indicates. Others say it was named after a festival lasting 2 1/2 days. It was originally built as a Sanskrit college, but in 1198 Muhammed of Ghori seized Ajmer and converted the building into a mosque by adding a seven-arched wall in front of the pillared hall.
Although the mosque is now in need of restoration, it is particularly fine piece of architecture - the pillars are all different and the arched 'screen', with its damaged minarets, is noteworthy.
Three kilometres and a steep 1 1/2 hour climb beyond the mosque, the Taragarh, orStar Fort, commands a superb view over the city (accessible by car). This ancient fort was built by Ajaipal Chuhan, the town's founder. It was the site of much military activity during Mughal times and was later used as a sanatorium by the British.
Akbar's Palace
Back in the city, not far from the main post office, this imposing building was constructed by Akbar in 1570 and today houses the government museum, which has a limited collection. Items include a collection of stone sculptures, some dating back to the 8th century AD, old weapons and miniature paintings.
It's open daily except Friday 10 am to 4.30 pm. Entry is Rs 3 (free on Monday), and a camera costs Rs 5/10 for Indians/foreigners; a video is Rs 10/20 for Indians/foreigners.
Nasiyan (Red) Temple
The Red Temple on Prithviraj Marg is a Jain temple built last century and is definitely worth checking out. Its double storey hall contains a fascinating series of large, gilt wooden figures from Jain mythology which depict the Jain concept of the ancient world. The temple is open 8.30 am to 4.30 pm daily (Rs 3).
Places to Stay
Ajmer's hotels are generally dreary. For details about the Paying Guest House Scheme contact the tourist office.
Hill Top Cottage (( 623984, 164 Shastri Nagar), behind the shopping centre, is one of the most homey places to stay in Ajmer. Far removed from the crowds and dust, it's not a cottage as the name suggests, but a family-run house on an elevated site (the rooftop has panoramic views). Clean singles/doubles/triples with bath go for Rs 400/500/600. There are also cheaper, but smaller, rooms for Rs 300/400. Breakfast is Rs 30 and a veg lunch/dinner is Rs 50.
King Edward Memorial Rest House (( 429936), known locally as KEM, is to the left as you exit the train station. This poorly maintained flophouse has rooms with bath starting at Rs 65 for a '2nd class' single. Don't expect service with a smile here.
Nagpal Tourist Hotel (( 429503), near the KEM, is much more salubrious. Rooms with private bath range from Rs 175/300 to Rs 900/1200. Some of the cheaper rooms are a bit small but OK. Pop next door to the Honeydew Restaurant for a feed.
Bhola Hotel (( 432844), south east of Agra Gate, has nondescript singles/doubles for Rs 125/175 with bath (bucket hot water)it has a good vegetarian restaurant. (see places to eat)
RTDC's Hotel Khadim (( 52490) is near the main bus stand and has rooms with bath from Rs 320/500; dorm beds are Rs 50.
Aravali Holiday Resort (( 52089), next door, is cheaper and more homey. Ordinary singles/doubles with bath (bucket hot water) cost Rs 150/200. no meals are available
Hotel Samrat (( 621257) on Kutchery Rd has small and somewhat musty rooms, but is convenient for early-morning departures with the private bus companies, as many have their offices nearby. Singles/doubles with bath (some with Indian-style toilet) are Rs 180/300. Choose a room at the back which has less traffic noise.
Hotel Regency (( 620296), close to the Dargah, is a good choice in a town starved of hotel talent. Rooms with attached bath cost Rs 380/400 and there's a nice veg restaurant
Hotel Embassy (( 623859), 9on Jaipur Rd, is a modern hotel with nice singles/doubles for Rs 500/800.
Mansingh Palace (( 425702, fax 425858) on Circular Rd overlooking Ana Sagar, is Ajmer's only top-end hotel. Although it's comfortable enough, there is lack of attention to detail, and it's not good value at Rs 1995/3000. There's a bar and restaurant here (see Places to Eat).
Places to Eat
Bhola Hotel has a very good veg restaurant at the top of a seedy staircase. Tasty thalis cost Rs 35, and there's also a variety of other dishes such as paneer kofta (Rs 40).
Honeydew Restaurant, next to the KEM Rest House, has a good selection of veg and nonveg Indian, Chinese and continental food. There are hot dogs (Rs 18), pizzas (around Rs 40), and for the adventurous, brain pakoras (Rs 40). Their banana lassi (Rs 20) is refreshing. You can chow down indoors or out in the garden.
Tandoor Restaurant, a little out of town on Jaipur Rd, offers an assortment of Indian veg and nonveg fare; a tandoori chicken costs Rs 90.
Sheesh Mahal , at the Mansingh Palace, is worth considering for a minor splurge. It serves Indian, Chinese and continental cuisine including chicken tikka masala (Rs 160).
Madina Hotel is handy if you're waiting for a train (the station is directly opposite). This sample eatry cooks up cheap veg and nonveg fare.
Getting There & Away
Bus There are buses from Jaipur to Ajmer every 30 minutes, some non-stop (Rs 52, 2 1/2 hours). The nine hour trip to Delhi costs Rs 152. The Roadways inquiry number is ( 429398.
State transport buses go to many destinations including Jodhpur (Rs 80, 210 km) Udaipur (Rs 132, 303km), Bundi (Rs 65, 165km), Bharatpur (Rs 122, 305km), Bikaner (Rs 108, 277km), and Jaisalmer (Rs 175, 490km). Also available are private buses - most of the companies have offices in Kutchery Rd. if you book your ticket to one of these destinations through an agency in Pushkar, they should provide a free jeep transfer to Ajmer to commence your journey. There are frequent buses from Ajmer to Pushkar (Rs 5, 30 minutes).
Train Ajmer is on the Delhi-Jaipur-Marwar-Ahemdabad-Mumbai line and most of the trains on this line stop at Ajmer. The comfortable Shatabdi Express travels daily, expect Sunday, between Ajmer and Delhi (the fare is Rs 580/1125 in ordinary/executive class) via Jaipur (Rs 290/555). This train leaves Delhi at 6.15 am and arrives in Ajmer at 12.40 pm. Going in the other direction, it leaves Ajmer at 3.30 pm and arrives in Delhi at 10.15 pm.
The Jaipur-Bandra Express travels between Ajmer and Mumbai (Rs 245). The fastest train to Udaipur takes 7 1/2 hours (Rs 370/564 in 2nd/1st class).
Getting Around
There are plenty of auto-rickshaws as well as some cycle-rickshaws and tongas. To travel anywhere in town by auto-rickshaws should cost you around Rs 15.
AROUND AJMER
Kishangarh
Located 27 km north-east of Ajmer, the small town of Kishangarh was founded by Kishan Singh in the early 17th century. Kishangarh is famous for its unique style of miniature painting, first produced in the 18th century.
Roopangarh Fort (( 01497-20217, fax 42001, 011-6220031, fax 6220032 in Delhi), fort which has been converted into a hotel by the maharaja and maharani of Kishangarh. The smaller rooms are Rs 750, while the bigger rooms are Rs 1190/1575, or Rs 2500 for a suite. Room No 7 has an awesome bed. The rooftop is the place to be at sunset.
Phool Mahal Palace, in Kishangarh, should be up and running as an upmarket hotel by the time you read this. Contact Roopangarh Fort for details.
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